Well Pump Won’t Shut Off: Why It’s Running Continuously & How to Fix It (2025)

Your well pump should cycle on and off as needed—running when pressure drops, stopping when pressure builds. But something’s changed. The pump runs constantly. You hear it humming day and night. Your electric bill has doubled. Water trickles from faucets instead of flowing strongly.

A pump that won’t shut off isn’t just annoying—it’s a red flag signaling serious problems that can destroy your pump, drain your well, and leave you without water. Acting quickly prevents a $500 pump replacement from becoming a $3,000 emergency involving well rehabilitation or worse.

This troubleshooting guide walks you through diagnosing why your pump won’t stop, which fixes you can handle yourself, and when you need professional help.

Understanding Normal Pump Operation

Before diagnosing problems, understand how your well system should work.

The Pressure System

Your well pump doesn’t run continuously under normal conditions. Instead, it maintains water pressure in a storage tank. The pressure tank acts as a buffer, allowing water usage without the pump running every time you turn on a faucet.

Normal Cycle:

1. Water pressure in the tank drops as you use water
2. At a set pressure (usually 30 or 40 PSI), the pressure switch activates the pump
3. Pump runs, filling the tank and building pressure
4. At a higher pressure (usually 50 or 60 PSI), the pressure switch shuts off the pump
5. Tank provides water pressure until the cycle repeats

This cycling might occur every few hours in a typical household, more often during heavy use periods like morning showers or laundry day. But the pump should always shut off once pressure builds.

What “Won’t Shut Off” Really Means

A pump that “won’t shut off” actually manifests in different ways:

Truly Continuous: Pump runs without stopping at all—24/7 operation.

Short Cycling: Pump runs, shuts off for 10-30 seconds, then immediately restarts. This rapid cycling continues indefinitely.

Extended Running: Pump runs much longer than normal before shutting off—maybe 10-15 minutes instead of the usual 2-3 minutes.

Each pattern points to different underlying issues. Pay attention to exactly how your pump is behaving—it helps narrow down the cause.

Immediate Actions: What to Do Right Now

Before diving into diagnostics, take these immediate steps:

1. Check Your Pressure Gauge: Look at the gauge on your pressure tank (or wherever your system has a gauge). What pressure does it show? Is it holding steady, dropping, or fluctuating?

2. Listen to the Pump: Is it running smoothly or making unusual sounds? Grinding, whining, or clicking noises indicate different problems than a pump running normally but too often.

3. Check for Running Water: Walk through your house. Is water running somewhere you don’t know about? A toilet with a stuck float, an outdoor hose left on, or a major leak causes pumps to run continuously while trying to maintain pressure.

4. Turn Off the Pump Temporarily: Locate your pump’s circuit breaker or disconnect switch. Turn it off for now. This prevents pump damage while you diagnose. Your pressure tank will provide water for immediate needs—just don’t use excessive water until you solve the problem.

Critical: If your pump is making loud grinding or squealing noises, turn it off immediately and call a professional. These sounds indicate imminent pump failure, and continued operation will destroy it completely.

Common Causes (From Most to Least Likely)

1. Waterlogged Pressure Tank (Most Common)

Your pressure tank contains an air bladder (or air cushion in older tanks) that compresses as water enters. When this bladder fails or the air cushion is lost, the tank can’t maintain pressure properly.

Symptoms:

• Pump runs very frequently
• Pump shuts off for just seconds before restarting
• Pressure gauge shows little range between pump on/off
• You might hear water sloshing in the tank when you thump it

Why It Happens: Bladders eventually fail—typical lifespan is 5-10 years. Older tanks without bladders lose their air cushion over time as air dissolves into water.

How to Check: Turn off power to the pump. Open a faucet to drain all pressure from the system. Once pressure reaches zero, feel the air valve on the tank (looks like a tire valve). Press the valve stem—if water comes out instead of air, the bladder has failed.

For tanks without bladders, thump the tank with your knuckle. It should sound hollow on the top half. If it sounds solid all the way up, the tank is waterlogged.

DIY Fix (For Bladderless Tanks): Some older-style tanks can be recharged with air. This is temporary but might buy time:

1. Turn off pump
2. Drain system completely
3. Open drain valve at bottom of tank
4. Let all water drain out
5. Close drain valve
6. Turn pump back on

This introduces air into the system. It will gradually become waterlogged again—this isn’t a permanent fix.

Permanent Fix: Replace the pressure tank. Bladder-style tanks are far superior to old galvanized tanks. Expect to pay $150-400 for a new tank, plus $200-400 for professional installation if you don’t DIY.

2. Malfunctioning Pressure Switch

The pressure switch tells your pump when to start and stop. When switches fail, pumps run continuously because the “stop” signal never comes.

Symptoms:

• Pump runs continuously even though pressure gauge shows high pressure
• Pressure builds above normal shut-off point
• Switch doesn’t click off when pressure reaches cut-out setting
• Visible burning or corrosion on switch contacts

Why It Happens: Pressure switch contacts can weld together from electrical arcing, burn out from corrosion, or mechanically stick due to mineral deposits. Well water with sediment accelerates this wear.

How to Check: Turn off power. Remove the switch cover (usually held by a single screw or clip). Examine the contacts. They should be clean and shiny silver. Burned, pitted, or corroded contacts indicate switch failure.

With power off, you can manually try to separate contacts gently. If they’re stuck together or don’t move freely, the switch needs replacement.

DIY Fix: Pressure switches are inexpensive ($15-40) and straightforward to replace if you’re comfortable with basic electrical work. Match your pump’s voltage and pressure settings.

Installation:

1. Turn off power and relieve system pressure
2. Take a photo of wire connections before disconnecting
3. Remove old switch
4. Install new switch with same pressure settings
5. Reconnect wires exactly as photographed
6. Restore power and test

Professional Required: If you’re uncomfortable with electrical work, hire help. The switch connects to your pump—incorrect wiring can damage the pump or create shock hazards.

3. Leak in the Plumbing System

A significant leak anywhere in your plumbing causes the pump to run continuously trying to maintain pressure it can never achieve.

Symptoms:

• Pump runs but pressure stays low or won’t build
• Water meter shows continuous usage
• Wet spots appear in your yard
• Unexplained increase in water usage
• Pump never quite reaches cut-out pressure

Why It’s Missed: Small leaks hide. Underground pipes leak into soil with no visible signs. Toilet flappers leak silently, wasting gallons. Leaks in crawl spaces or between walls remain invisible for months.

How to Check: Conduct a leak test:

1. Turn off all water-using appliances
2. Make sure no one uses water
3. Check your pressure gauge
4. If pressure steadily drops with no water use, you have a leak

To locate leaks:

• Toilets: Add food coloring to tank. If color appears in bowl without flushing, the flapper leaks.
• Underground: Listen for running water sounds near pipes
• Meter Test: Turn off your house shut-off valve. If the pump still runs, the leak is between the well and your house.

DIY Fix: Fix identified leaks: replace toilet flappers ($5-10), tighten connections, or repair accessible pipes.

Professional Required: Underground leaks, leaks inside walls, or leaks you can’t locate need professional leak detection services ($200-500) followed by repair.

4. Check Valve Failure

The check valve in your well prevents water from flowing backward down the well when the pump shuts off. When this valve fails, water drains back down, pressure drops, and the pump restarts constantly.

Symptoms:

• Pump short cycles (runs briefly, stops, immediately restarts)
• You hear water draining down the well when pump shuts off
• Pressure drops quickly even with no water use
• More common with deep wells

Why It Happens: Check valves eventually fail from wear, mineral deposits, or debris lodged in the valve seat.

How to Check: After the pump builds pressure and shuts off, listen at your well cap or pressure tank. If you hear water draining or flowing, suspect check valve failure.

Monitor your pressure gauge. With all faucets closed, pressure shouldn’t drop for many minutes. If it drops steadily, water is leaving the system—either through a leak or back down the well via a bad check valve.

DIY Fix: Not recommended for deep submersible pumps. The check valve is inside the well on the pump discharge. Accessing it requires pulling the pump—professional work costing $400-800.

Shallow jet pumps might have accessible check valves you can replace yourself if mechanically inclined.

Professional Required: Pulling pumps from wells requires specialized equipment and expertise. Don’t attempt this yourself.

5. Low Well Water Level (Pump Running Dry)

If your well’s water level has dropped below the pump intake, the pump runs continuously but can’t deliver water. This destroys pumps quickly—they’re designed to pump water, not air.

Symptoms:

• Pump runs but delivers no water or very little water
• Sputtering or air in water lines
• Pump makes different sounds than usual
• Happens during droughts or after extended heavy use

Why It Happens:

• Seasonal water table drop during dry periods
• Excessive water usage draining the well faster than it refills
• Damaged well screen reducing well yield
• Nearby wells affecting the water table

How to Check: Turn off the pump immediately if you suspect this. Let the well rest for several hours or overnight. Turn the pump back on and see if water flow improves initially then degrades again—this suggests the well is slow to recharge.

Professional well loggers can measure actual water level depth and pumping levels.

DIY Fix: None for low water levels. You can reduce water usage, but the well itself needs professional assessment.

Professional Required: A well professional can:

• Measure exact water levels and recharge rate
• Lower the pump if adequate water exists at greater depth
• Recommend well rehabilitation if screen is clogged
• Advise on capacity limitations

Critical: Never run a pump dry. It overheats and burns out within minutes. Replacement costs $500-2,500 depending on pump size and well depth.

6. Clogged or Failed Foot Valve (Jet Pumps)

Shallow-well jet pumps use foot valves at the pipe end in the well. These valves keep the pump primed. When foot valves fail or clog, the pump loses prime and runs continuously trying to build pressure it can’t achieve without water in the line.

Symptoms (Jet Pumps Only):

• Pump runs but delivers no water
• Pump loses prime repeatedly
• Must manually prime the pump frequently
• Air or low pressure in lines

How to Check: Jet pumps have a priming port—a plug you can remove to fill the pump with water. If the pump loses prime constantly, suspect foot valve issues.

DIY Fix: Pulling the well pipe and replacing the foot valve is possible for shallow wells (under 25 feet). You need help—well pipe is heavy and awkward.

Professional Required: For deep wells or if you’re not experienced with jet pump systems, hire help.

7. Broken or Stuck Pressure Switch Contacts

Similar to switch failure but specifically the mechanical contacts inside the switch can burn, pit, or stick closed.

Symptoms:

• Pump doesn’t respond to pressure changes
• Manual switch override doesn’t work
• Visible damage to contacts when switch cover is removed

How to Check: Remove switch cover (power off first). Look at the metal contact points. They should be clean, shiny silver, and separate clearly when not under pressure. Pitted, burned, or stuck contacts need replacement.

DIY Fix: Some people try filing contacts smooth. This works temporarily but isn’t reliable long-term. Replacement is the proper fix—switches cost $15-40.

Professional Required: If you’re uncomfortable with electrical work or if the switch is part of a complex control system.

8. Pressure Sensing Line Clogged

Some systems use a small tube that senses pressure. If this tube clogs with sediment or minerals, the switch can’t accurately read pressure and won’t shut off the pump.

Symptoms:

• Pressure builds but pump doesn’t shut off
• Pressure gauge reads higher than switch setting but pump keeps running

How to Check: Locate the small tube or pipe connecting the pressure switch to your plumbing. Disconnect it carefully and blow through it. If blocked, you’ve found your problem.

DIY Fix: Clear the blockage. Sometimes you can flush it with water or use a small wire to dislodge sediment. If the tube is damaged, replace it with new tubing from a hardware store.

Less Common Causes

Control Box Failure (3-Wire Submersible Pumps): Three-wire submersible pumps use a separate control box containing capacitors and relays. Component failure here causes various running problems. Requires electrical expertise or professional diagnosis.

Pump Stuck On: Rarely, mechanical problems inside the pump cause it to run regardless of electrical signals. This typically accompanies unusual sounds and requires pump replacement.

Wiring Issues: Loose connections, damaged wires, or incorrect voltage can create problems that present as continuous running. These issues usually accompany other symptoms like tripped breakers or dim lights.

Undersized Pump: If your pump can’t quite meet demand, it may run nearly constantly trying to keep up. This isn’t a “won’t shut off” problem exactly—more a design issue where the pump reaches the limit of its capacity.

Troubleshooting Steps: Systematic Diagnosis

Work through these steps in order:

Step 1: Note Exact Symptoms

• Does the pump run continuously or short-cycle?
• What pressure does the gauge show?
• Is water flowing from faucets normally?
• Any unusual sounds from the pump?

Step 2: Turn Off the Pump Prevent damage while diagnosing.

Step 3: Check for Leaks Conduct the leak test described earlier. Rule out simple causes first.

Step 4: Inspect Pressure Tank Check air pressure (with power off and system drained). Thump the tank. Assess whether it’s waterlogged.

Step 5: Examine Pressure Switch Remove cover (power off). Look for obvious damage, burnt contacts, or stuck components.

Step 6: Test the System Turn power back on briefly and watch exactly what happens:

• Does pressure build at all?
• Does the switch click on and off?
• What pressure levels does the gauge show?

Step 7: Call Professional If Needed If you can’t identify the problem or lack skills to fix it, get expert help. Continuing to run a malfunctioning pump causes expensive damage.

When to DIY vs. Call a Professional

Safe DIY Projects:

• Replacing pressure switch
• Checking for leaks
• Testing pressure tank air pressure
• Adjusting switch settings (if you understand them)
• Basic electrical troubleshooting if you’re experienced

Call a Professional For:

• Pulling a well pump
• Working inside a well
• Major electrical issues
• Anything involving the pump itself
• Control box diagnosis and repair
• Well yield testing
• Underground leak detection

Gray Areas:

• Pressure tank replacement: DIY-capable homeowners can handle this, but it’s heavy work
• Check valve replacement on shallow systems: Doable if you’re mechanically inclined

When in doubt, call for help. The cost of professional diagnosis ($100-300) is cheaper than replacing a burned-out pump ($500-2,500) or damaging equipment through incorrect repairs.

Prevention: Avoiding Future Problems

Once fixed, prevent recurrence:

Annual Maintenance:

• Check pressure tank air pressure annually
• Inspect pressure switch contacts
• Listen to pump operation for changes
• Note any changes in cycling frequency

Water Treatment: If you have sediment or minerals in your water, install appropriate filtration. These contaminants accelerate wear on pressure switches, check valves, and pump components.

Monitor Usage: Be aware of your well’s capacity. During droughts, reduce usage to prevent pumping the well dry.

Respond to Changes: If your pump’s cycling pattern changes—even subtly—investigate immediately. Small problems caught early are cheap and easy to fix. Ignored problems become expensive emergencies.

Costs: What to Expect

DIY Repairs:

• Pressure switch: $15-40
• Pressure tank: $150-400
• Toilet flappers: $5-15
• Small plumbing repairs: $10-50

Professional Services:

• Diagnosis: $100-300
• Pressure tank replacement (installed): $350-700
• Pressure switch replacement: $150-300
• Pull and inspect pump: $400-800
• Pump replacement: $500-2,500 depending on depth and size
• Well yield testing: $200-500
• Leak detection: $200-500

Emergency vs. Scheduled: Emergency calls often cost 50-100% more than scheduled service. Fix problems promptly to avoid emergency pricing.

Red Flags: Stop and Call for Help

Immediately turn off your pump and call a professional if you experience:

• Loud grinding, squealing, or scraping sounds
• Burning smell from pump or control box
• Tripped breakers that won’t reset
• No water flow despite pump running
• Visible sparking or smoke
• Pump cycles on and off within seconds (extreme short-cycling)

These indicate serious problems requiring immediate expert attention. Continued operation will destroy equipment and potentially create safety hazards.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How long can I run my pump continuously before it’s damaged?

A: Don’t let it run unnecessarily. Pumps generate heat, and continuous operation accelerates wear dramatically. Turn it off while diagnosing to prevent damage.

Q: My pump runs but pressure only builds to 30 PSI instead of 50 PSI. What’s wrong?

A: Likely a leak in the system, low well yield, or pump losing capacity. Check for leaks first, then consider professional well and pump assessment.

Q: Can I adjust my pressure switch to make the pump shut off at lower pressure?

A: Yes, but this doesn’t solve the underlying problem—it just masks symptoms. Your system should reach designed pressure. Lowering settings reduces water pressure throughout your home.

Q: The pump shuts off for about 20 seconds then immediately restarts. Is this bad?

A: Yes, this short-cycling indicates a problem—usually a waterlogged pressure tank or significant leak. Address it promptly to prevent pump damage.

Q: How do I know if my well is running dry vs. the pump failing?

A: Turn off the pump and let the well rest for several hours. Turn it back on. If water flows initially then sputters again, your well is slow to recharge. If there’s never good flow, suspect pump issues. Professional testing can measure actual water levels.

Q: Can hard water or sediment cause pump running problems?

A: Indirectly, yes. Minerals clog pressure switches, wear check valves, and damage pumps gradually. Installing water treatment protects equipment and extends lifespan.

Taking Action

A pump that won’t shut off demands attention now, not later. Every hour it runs unnecessarily increases repair costs and moves you closer to complete pump failure.

Start with the simple checks: leaks, pressure tank, and pressure switch. Many continuous-running problems trace to these three causes—all manageable with basic skills and modest costs.

If diagnosis reveals well problems, pump issues, or anything requiring pulling the pump, bring in professionals. Their expertise prevents costly mistakes and ensures proper, lasting repairs.

Your well system is your home’s lifeline. Treat pump problems with urgency, fix them correctly, and maintain the system properly. The small investment in addressing issues promptly saves thousands in emergency repairs and prevents the nightmare of being without water while waiting for repairs during summer heat or winter cold.