Submersible Well Pump Troubleshooting: Complete Diagnostic Guide (2025)

When you turn on your faucet and nothing happens—or worse, you hear your well pump running constantly—panic sets in fast.

A submersible well pump failure can mean no water for drinking, cooking, bathing, or flushing toilets. And when you call a well contractor, you’re looking at $150-$300 just for them to show up, plus $100-$200 per hour for diagnosis and repairs. If the pump needs replacing? Add another $1,000-$3,000+ to the bill.

But here’s the good news: Many submersible pump problems can be diagnosed and sometimes even fixed without pulling the pump from your well. Electrical issues, pressure problems, and control failures are often above-ground and accessible—saving you hundreds or thousands in unnecessary service calls.

After 20+ years of well system experience and analyzing hundreds of pump failures, I’ve created this comprehensive troubleshooting guide. You’ll learn how to systematically diagnose problems, identify what’s fixable versus what requires professional help, and most importantly—determine if your pump actually needs replacing or if the problem is something simpler.

Important Safety Warning: Well pumps involve 240V electricity and pressurized water systems. If you’re not comfortable working with electrical systems, call a professional. This guide is for educational purposes and basic diagnostics—know your limits.

Quick Diagnosis: Symptoms and Likely Causes

SymptomMost Likely CauseDIY Fix?No water, pump not runningTripped breaker, bad pressure switch✅ OftenNo water, pump runs constantlyBad check valve, low well water⚠️ SometimesLow water pressureClogged filter, wrong pressure switch setting✅ UsuallyPump cycles on/off rapidlyBad pressure tank, leak in system✅ UsuallyPump won't shut offPressure switch failure, leak✅ SometimesWater sputters/spits airCheck valve problem, low well level⚠️ SometimesBlown breakers repeatedlyShort in wiring, failed motor❌ No - ProfessionalNo water, breaker OKFailed pump motor, broken wire❌ No - ProfessionalBrown/sandy waterWell sediment, screen blocked⚠️ SometimesHigh electric billsPump running excessively, worn impeller⚠️ Sometimes

Legend: ✅ DIY-friendly | ⚠️ May need pro | ❌ Professional required

Understanding Your Submersible Pump System

Before troubleshooting, you need to understand the components:

Main System Components:

1. Submersible Pump (in well):

• Electric motor sealed in waterproof housing
• Multiple impellers that push water up
• Typically 100-500 feet deep in well
• ½ HP to 2 HP for residential
• 10-15 year lifespan

2. Pressure Tank (above ground):

• Stores water under pressure
• Prevents pump from constant cycling
• 20-80 gallon capacity typical
• Contains air bladder or diaphragm
• See our guide: LINK: Best Pressure Tanks for Well Water

3. Pressure Switch (above ground):

• Controls pump on/off based on pressure
• Typically 30/50 PSI or 40/60 PSI settings
• Can be adjusted or replaced
• $15-$75 component

4. Control Box (3-wire pumps only):

• Contains start capacitor and relay
• Located above ground
• Controls motor starting
• Common failure point

5. Check Valve (in well or at pump):

• Prevents water from draining back into well
• Maintains pressure in system
• Can fail and cause issues
• Requires pump pull to replace

6. Electrical Components:

• 240V circuit from panel
• 10/2 or 12/2 wire (2-wire pumps)
• 10/3 or 12/3 wire (3-wire pumps)
• Submersible-rated wire in well

2-Wire vs. 3-Wire Pumps:

2-Wire Pumps:

• Capacitor and controls INSIDE motor (in well)
• Simpler installation
• Entire control system must be replaced if capacitor fails
• More expensive to service

3-Wire Pumps:

• Control box ABOVE ground
• Easier to service (capacitor accessible)
• More complex wiring
• Recommended for deep wells

How to tell which you have: Count wires at pressure switch (not including ground). 2 wires = 2-wire pump. 3 wires = 3-wire pump.

Systematic Troubleshooting Process

Follow this step-by-step diagnostic process. Start at Step 1 and work through until you identify the problem.

STEP 1: Verify Power Supply

Before you do ANYTHING else, check the basics.

Check the Circuit Breaker:

1. Go to your electrical panel
2. Find the well pump breaker (usually 20-30 amp, 240V double-pole)
3. Check if it’s tripped (handle in middle position)
4. If tripped, reset it (flip to OFF, then ON)
5. Listen for pump to start

If breaker trips immediately when reset:

• Short circuit in wiring
• Failed motor
• Water in control box
• ❌ STOP – Call professional

If breaker stays on but pump doesn’t run:

• Move to Step 2

Pro Tip: Check nearby GFCI outlets if you have any. Sometimes well pumps are incorrectly wired through GFCI circuits.

STEP 2: Check Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is the most common failure point—and the easiest to fix.

Location: Mounted on or near pressure tank

Visual Inspection:

1. Remove cover from pressure switch (usually just lifts off)
2. Look for:
   • Burned or pitted contacts
   • Corrosion
   • Mineral deposits
   • Stuck mechanism

Voltage Test (requires multimeter – $20-$40):

1. ⚡ WARNING: 240V present – use extreme caution
2. Set multimeter to AC voltage
3. Check voltage at LINE terminals (from breaker)
4. Should read 220-240V
5. If NO voltage: Problem in wiring before switch
6. If voltage present: Check LOAD side

Test the Switch:

1. Turn on a faucet
2. Watch pressure gauge drop
3. At cut-in pressure (usually 30 PSI), pump should start
4. If pressure drops below cut-in and pump doesn’t start:
   • Pressure switch likely bad
   • Check if contacts are stuck

Common Pressure Switch Problems:

Stuck Contacts:

• Mineral buildup prevents closing
• Fix: Clean contacts with fine sandpaper
• Cost: Free
• Time: 15 minutes

Burned Contacts:

• Arcing has damaged contact points
• Fix: Replace switch
• Cost: $20-$75
• Time: 30 minutes
• DIY: Yes, if comfortable with electrical

Wrong Settings:

• Cut-in/cut-out pressures incorrect
• Fix: Adjust springs inside switch
• Difficulty: Moderate – requires understanding
• See adjustment guide below

Replacement Recommendation: [AFFILIATE LINK] Square D Pressure Switch ($35-$50)

• Industry standard
• Easy to install
• Adjustable
• Most common replacement

Related Guide: LINK: Well Pressure Tank Problems – Pressure switch troubleshooting

STEP 3: Check Pressure Tank

A failed pressure tank causes many symptoms that seem like pump problems.

Quick Tank Test:

1. Turn off pump at breaker
2. Open a faucet and drain all water from system
3. Check air pressure at tank valve (like tire valve)
4. Should be 2 PSI below cut-in pressure
   • Example: 30/50 PSI switch = 28 PSI air
5. If no air pressure: Bladder has failed

Press Air Valve Test:

1. Locate air valve on top of tank
2. Press valve core (like checking tire pressure)
3. If WATER sprays out: Bladder failed ❌
4. If air comes out: Bladder OK ✅

Tap Test:

1. With system pressurized, tap tank with knuckles
2. Bottom should sound full (water)
3. Top should sound hollow (air)
4. If entire tank sounds full: Waterlogged (bladder failed)

If Tank is Bad:

• Can you fix it? Sometimes – some tanks have replaceable bladders
• Should you fix it? Usually NO – replacement is better value
• Cost to replace: $150-$600 depending on size
• See our guide: LINK: Best Pressure Tanks for recommendations

Temporary Fix:

If you need water while waiting for tank replacement:

1. Turn off pump
2. Add air to tank (if possible)
3. Turn on pump
4. Monitor closely – pump will cycle more frequently
5. Replace tank ASAP to prevent pump damage

STEP 4: Check Control Box (3-Wire Pumps Only)

If you have a 3-wire pump, the control box is a common failure point.

Location: Usually mounted on wall near pressure tank

Visual Inspection:

1. Turn off breaker
2. Remove control box cover
3. Look for:
   • Bulging or leaking capacitor
   • Burned wires or terminals
   • Corrosion
   • Loose connections

Capacitor Test:

The start capacitor is the most common control box failure.

Visual signs of bad capacitor:

• Bulging top
• Leaking oil
• Burnt smell
• Corrosion on terminals

Test with multimeter (capacitance setting):

1. Discharge capacitor first (short terminals with screwdriver)
2. Remove capacitor wires
3. Test capacitance value
4. Should match label (±10%)
5. If far off or infinite: Replace

Capacitor Replacement:

[AFFILIATE LINK] Replacement Start Capacitor ($25-$60)

• Match µF (microfarad) rating exactly
• Match voltage rating (or higher OK)
• Common sizes: 88-108 µF, 216-259 µF
• Easy DIY replacement

Relay Test:

The potential relay controls when capacitor engages:

Signs of bad relay:

• Pump won’t start
• Hums but doesn’t run
• Breaker trips on starting

Test:

• Requires specific technical knowledge
• Best left to professionals
• Relay failure less common than capacitor

Full Control Box Replacement:

[AFFILIATE LINK] Complete Control Box ($100-$250)

• Includes capacitor, relay, wiring
• Easier than diagnosing individual parts
• Match HP rating to your pump
• Available for most pump brands

STEP 5: Check for Leaks in System

A hidden leak makes the pump run constantly and can mimic pump failure.

Where to Check:

Inside House:

• Toilets (listen for running water)
• Faucets (dripping)
• Washing machine hoses
• Water heater relief valve
• Under sinks

Outside:

• Hose bibs
• Sprinkler systems
• Pressure tank connections
• Well pit or house connection

Leak Detection Test:

1. Turn off ALL water in house
2. Watch pressure gauge
3. Note the pressure
4. Wait 10 minutes
5. Check pressure again

Results:

• Pressure drops: You have a leak ❌
• Pressure stable: No leak ✅

If pressure drops:

• Turn on pump
• Check pressure gauge
• If pump cycles on within 1-2 minutes with NO water use: Leak confirmed
• Systematically check each area until found

STEP 6: Check Well Water Level

If your well has been pumped down, the pump can’t deliver water.

How to Check Well Level:

Method 1: Well Sounder (Recommended) [AFFILIATE LINK] Electronic Well Water Level Meter ($100-$200)

• Lower probe into well
• Beeps when contacts water
• Read depth on tape
• Most accurate method

Method 2: Weighted String

• Lower weighted string or tape measure into well
• Feel for water (weight becomes lighter)
• Mark and measure depth
• Less accurate but free

Method 3: Listen

• Remove well cap
• Listen for pump running
• If pump very loud: Low water level (pump near surface)
• If quiet: Adequate water

Normal Well Recovery:

After heavy use, wells need time to recharge:

• Normal: 5-10 GPM recovery rate
• Acceptable: 3-5 GPM
• Concerning: <3 GPM

If Well is Low:

Short-term solutions:

• Reduce water usage
• Allow well to recover (several hours to days)
• Stagger water use (don’t shower + laundry simultaneously)

Long-term solutions:

• Lower pump deeper (if possible)
• Drill deeper well
• Install well recovery system
• Reduce household water demands

Related: LINK: Low Water Pressure from Well – Well recovery issues

STEP 7: Test Pump Amperage (Advanced)

This test helps diagnose pump condition WITHOUT pulling it.

Equipment Needed: [AFFILIATE LINK] Clamp Ammeter ($40-$150)

• Measures amp draw of pump
• Non-contact (clamps around wire)
• Essential diagnostic tool

How to Test:

1. Turn off pump at breaker
2. Clamp ammeter around ONE hot wire at pressure switch
3. Turn breaker back on
4. Let pump run and stabilize
5. Note amp reading

Compare to Pump Nameplate:

Check pump label for normal operating amps. Typically:

• ½ HP: 5-8 amps
• ¾ HP: 8-12 amps
• 1 HP: 10-16 amps
• 1½ HP: 14-20 amps

Diagnosis:

Higher than normal amps (20-50% over):

• Worn bearings
• Damaged impeller
• Partially seized motor
• Line blockage
• Bad check valve
• ❌ Pump likely needs replacement

Lower than normal amps:

• Pump not working hard (less concerning)
• Could indicate cavitation
• Check valve issue

Normal amps:

• Pump motor is OK
• Problem likely elsewhere (pressure tank, switch, leaks)

Amp Draw During Start:

• Normal: Brief spike (3-6x normal) for 1-2 seconds
• Problem: Sustained high amps or won’t start
• If breaker trips during start: Motor failing or short circuit

STEP 8: Check Check Valve

The check valve is IN the well, making this harder to diagnose.

Signs of Bad Check Valve:

✓ Water runs backward after pump stops (you hear it) ✓ Pressure drops quickly when pump isn’t running ✓ Pump cycles very frequently ✓ Takes long time to build pressure ✓ Air/sputtering from faucets

Test:

1. Turn off water at house (valve after pressure tank)
2. Run pump to build pressure
3. Shut off pump at breaker
4. Watch pressure gauge

Results:

• Pressure holds: Check valve OK ✅
• Pressure drops: Check valve leaking ❌

How fast should pressure drop?

• Normal: Minimal drop in 5 minutes
• Concerning: Drops 5+ PSI in 1 minute
• Failed: Drops to zero quickly

Fix:

Check valve replacement requires pulling the pump from well:

• Professional cost: $500-$1,500+ (includes pump pull)
• DIY: Possible if mechanically skilled, but challenging
• Typical: 4-6 hours of labor

Temporary workaround:

While waiting for service:

• Accept that pump will cycle more frequently
• Monitor for excessive cycling (could damage pump)
• Don’t delay repair – shortens pump life

Recommended Check Valves: [AFFILIATE LINK] Brass Check Valves (various sizes)

• Match to your pipe diameter
• Brass or stainless construction
• Spring-loaded for reliability

STEP 9: Electrical Testing (Advanced)

WARNING: This involves 240V electricity. If unsure, STOP and call professional.

These tests help diagnose wiring issues:

Voltage Test at Pump Wires:

Required: [AFFILIATE LINK] Digital Multimeter ($30-$80)

For 2-Wire Pumps:

1. Disconnect pump wires at pressure switch
2. Turn on breaker
3. Close pressure switch manually (with wooden stick – don’t touch!)
4. Measure voltage between two pump wires
5. Should read 220-240V

Result:

• Voltage present: Wiring to switch OK
• No voltage: Problem in breaker or wiring before switch

For 3-Wire Pumps:

1. Disconnect pump wires at control box
2. Check voltage at control box input (L1, L2)
3. Should read 220-240V
4. Check voltage at control box output (Yellow, Black or Red)
5. Should read specific voltages per manufacturer specs

Resistance Test (Pump Motor):

This tests if pump motor windings are intact:

1. Turn off breaker and lock out
2. Disconnect pump wires
3. Set multimeter to resistance (ohms)
4. Measure resistance between pump wires

For 2-Wire Pumps:

• Should read 4-15 ohms typically
• If “OL” (infinite resistance): Open winding – motor bad ❌
• If 0 ohms: Shorted winding – motor bad ❌

For 3-Wire Pumps:

• Yellow to Black: 5-10 ohms (run winding)
• Yellow to Red: 3-6 ohms (start winding)
• Black to Red: Combined resistance
• Check manufacturer specs for exact values

Ground Fault Test:

Tests for short to ground:

1. Disconnect all pump wires
2. Test resistance from each wire to ground
3. Should read “OL” (infinite – no connection)
4. If any reading: Short to ground – motor bad ❌

Insulation Test (Megger Test):

Professional tool – [AFFILIATE LINK] Megohmmeter ($150-$500)

• Tests insulation integrity
• Requires specialized knowledge
• Usually performed by professionals
• Values should be >20 megohms

Common Problems and Solutions

Problem 1: No Water, Pump Won’t Run

Diagnosis Checklist:

☐ Check breaker – tripped? ☐ Check pressure switch – contacts closed? ☐ Check control box (3-wire) – power in and out? ☐ Test voltage at pump wires ☐ Test pump resistance

Most Likely Causes:

1. Tripped Breaker (70% of cases)

• Fix: Reset breaker
• Cost: Free
• If it trips again: Call professional

2. Bad Pressure Switch (20% of cases)

• Fix: Replace switch
• Cost: $35-$75 DIY
• Time: 30 minutes

3. Failed Control Box (3-wire, 5% of cases)

• Fix: Replace capacitor or entire box
• Cost: $30-$250 DIY
• Time: 1 hour

4. Broken Wire (3% of cases)

• Fix: Locate and repair/replace wire
• Cost: $50-$200 DIY, $300-$800 professional
• Difficulty: Varies by location

5. Failed Pump Motor (2% of cases)

• Fix: Replace pump
• Cost: $1,000-$3,000+
• Professional required

Problem 2: Pump Runs But No Water

This is frustrating—you hear the pump working but get no water.

Diagnosis:

☐ Is pump actually running or just control box? ☐ Check amp draw – normal or low? ☐ Check well water level ☐ Check for frozen pipes (winter) ☐ Check foot valve (if jet pump was converted)

Most Likely Causes:

1. Low Well Water Level (40%)

• Pump running dry/cavitating
• Fix: Let well recover, reduce usage
• Long-term: Lower pump or drill deeper

2. Airlock in Pump (25%)

• Air trapped prevents water movement
• Fix: Cycle pump on/off several times
• May self-resolve

3. Frozen Pipes (Winter, 20%)

• Water line frozen between well and house
• Fix: Thaw pipes carefully
• Prevention: Heat tape, insulation

4. Failed Check Valve (10%)

• Water draining back, pump can’t build pressure
• Fix: Replace check valve (requires pump pull)

5. Broken Impeller/Shaft (5%)

• Pump mechanically failed
• Fix: Replace pump
• Cost: $1,000-$3,000+

Problem 3: Low Water Pressure

You have water but pressure is weak.

Check First:

☐ Pressure gauge reading – what pressure? ☐ Pressure tank air charge – correct? ☐ Sediment filter (if any) – clogged? ☐ Pressure switch setting – correct?

Most Likely Causes:

1. Clogged Sediment Filter (40%)

• Fix: Replace filter cartridge
• Cost: $10-$30
• Time: 5 minutes
• Filters: [AFFILIATE LINK] See our sediment filter guide

2. Wrong Pressure Switch Setting (25%)

• Set too low
• Fix: Adjust cut-out pressure higher
• How: Turn adjusting screw clockwise
• Caution: Don’t exceed tank/pump ratings

3. Waterlogged Pressure Tank (20%)

• Bladder failed
• Fix: Replace tank
• Cost: $150-$600
• Guide: LINK: Best Pressure Tanks

4. Partially Clogged Impeller (10%)

• Sand/sediment in pump
• Fix: Pull pump, clean or replace
• Cost: $800-$2,000 professional

5. Worn Pump (5%)

• Years of service, efficiency declined
• Fix: Replace pump
• Cost: $1,000-$3,000+

Problem 4: Pump Runs Constantly, Won’t Shut Off

This will burn out your pump quickly and skyrocket electric bills.

Check:

☐ Pressure gauge – is pressure building? ☐ For leaks – systematic check ☐ Pressure switch – is it working? ☐ Check valve – holding pressure?

Most Likely Causes:

1. Leak in System (50%)

• Toilet, faucet, or hidden leak
• Fix: Find and repair leak
• How: See leak detection in Step 5

2. Bad Pressure Switch (25%)

• Contacts won’t open at cut-out pressure
• Fix: Clean contacts or replace switch
• Cost: Free to $75

3. Failed Check Valve (15%)

• Water draining back, pressure never builds
• Fix: Replace check valve
• Cost: $500-$1,500+ (pump pull required)

4. Pressure Switch Set Wrong (8%)

• Cut-out set too high for pump capacity
• Fix: Adjust pressure switch lower
• Note: Don’t exceed pump capabilities

5. Low Well Yield (2%)

• Well can’t keep up with demand
• Pump runs continuously trying to build pressure
• Fix: Reduce usage, enlarge well, or add storage

Problem 5: Pump Cycles On/Off Rapidly (Short Cycling)

Pump runs every 30 seconds to few minutes even with minimal water use.

This is BAD—rapid cycling destroys pumps.

Check:

☐ Pressure tank – waterlogged? ☐ Tank air pressure – correct? ☐ For small leaks ☐ Tank size – adequate for pump?

Most Likely Causes:

1. Failed Pressure Tank Bladder (70%)

• No air cushion
• Fix: Replace tank
• Cost: $150-$600
• See: LINK: Pressure Tank Problems

2. Low Tank Air Pressure (15%)

• Lost air charge
• Fix: Add air to match specifications
• Cost: Free
• Time: 5 minutes

3. Small Leak (10%)

• Toilet or small drip causing pressure drop
• Fix: Find and repair leak

4. Undersized Tank (3%)

• Tank too small for pump GPM
• Fix: Upgrade to larger tank
• Sizing: LINK: Best Pressure Tanks

5. Multiple Issues (2%)

• Combination of problems
• Fix: Address each individually

Problem 6: Water Sputters or Spits Air

Air in water lines causes sputtering faucets.

Causes:

☐ Check valve leaking ☐ Well water level low ☐ Hole/crack in pipe ☐ Pump intake at water surface

Fixes:

If occasional: Might be naturally gaseous well water If constant: Check valve or low water level If worsening: Well level dropping

Solutions:

• Replace check valve
• Lower pump deeper in well
• Let well recover
• Reduce simultaneous water use

When to Call a Professional

You should definitely call a pro for:

❌ Pulling pump from well (specialized equipment) ❌ Repeated electrical problems (safety risk) ❌ Well drilling or deepening ❌ Pump replacement (unless very experienced) ❌ Pressure >90 PSI or other dangerous conditions ❌ Anything you’re uncomfortable diagnosing ❌ If you smell burning or see smoke

You can probably DIY:

✅ Pressure switch replacement ✅ Pressure tank replacement ✅ Control box capacitor replacement ✅ Adjusting pressure switch ✅ Adding air to pressure tank ✅ Replacing sediment filters ✅ Basic electrical testing (if skilled)

Gray Area (depends on skill level):

⚠️ Running new wire to pump ⚠️ Control box complete replacement ⚠️ Extensive leak detection ⚠️ Pressure tank diagnosis

Pump Replacement: When Is It Time?

Replace your pump if:

• Motor failed (confirmed by resistance test)
• Pump is 15+ years old AND having problems
• Repair costs approach $500+ (pump replacement often better value)
• Multiple component failures
• Well contractor recommends replacement

Repair instead if:

• Pump is under 5 years old
• Single component failure (check valve, wire)
• Recent installation
• Problem is above-ground (pressure tank, switch)

Replacement Costs:

• Pump only: $400-$1,500 depending on HP and brand
• Installation: $600-$2,000+ depending on depth
• Total: $1,000-$3,500 typical

Best Submersible Pumps: [AFFILIATE LINK] See our complete guide: LINK: Best Well Pumps

Recommended brands:

• Grundfos (premium)
• Franklin Electric (industry standard)
• Red Lion (good value)
• Goulds (professional grade)

Preventive Maintenance to Avoid Problems

Annual Checks:

✅ Test pressure tank air charge (add if needed) ✅ Check amp draw with meter (baseline) ✅ Inspect pressure switch contacts ✅ Check for leaks systematically ✅ Test check valve function ✅ Note recovery rate after heavy use ✅ Replace sediment filters

Every 3-5 Years:

✅ Replace pressure switch (preventive) ✅ Inspect control box capacitor (if 3-wire) ✅ Professional well inspection ✅ Water quality test

Protect Your Pump:

[AFFILIATE LINK] Whole House Sediment Filter ($100-$300)

• Protects pump from sand damage
• Extends pump life 30-50%
• Easy to maintain
• See our guide: LINK: Best Sediment Filters

[AFFILIATE LINK] Surge Protector for Pumps ($50-$150)

• Protects from lightning/power surges
• Prevents electrical damage
• One-time investment
• Can save $1,000+ pump

Related: LINK: Annual Well Maintenance Checklist

Essential Tools for Pump Troubleshooting

Basic Kit ($100-$200):

[AFFILIATE LINK] Digital Multimeter ($30-$80)

• Tests voltage, resistance, continuity
• Essential diagnostic tool
• Learn to use it properly

[AFFILIATE LINK] Clamp Ammeter ($40-$150)

• Measures pump amp draw
• Non-contact (safer)
• Diagnoses motor condition

[AFFILIATE LINK] Pressure Gauge (if not installed) ($15-$40)

• Monitors system pressure
• Should be installed on all systems
• 0-100 PSI range

[AFFILIATE LINK] Well Water Level Meter ($100-$200)

• Measures water depth in well
• Eliminates guessing
• Useful for diagnosis

Advanced Tools ($200-$500):

[AFFILIATE LINK] Megohmmeter ($150-$500)

• Tests insulation
• Professional-grade
• Not essential for basic troubleshooting

FAQs

Q: How long do submersible well pumps last?

A: Average lifespan is 10-15 years, but varies widely. Factors: water quality (sand kills pumps fast), pump quality, proper sizing, maintenance, and usage. Premium pumps in clean wells can last 20+ years. Pumps in sandy wells might fail in 5-8 years.

Q: Why does my well pump keep tripping the breaker?

A: Most common causes: 1) Failing motor drawing too many amps, 2) Short circuit in wiring, 3) Water in control box, 4) Wrong breaker size, 5) Bad control box capacitor (3-wire pumps). If breaker trips immediately when reset, stop and call professional—this indicates serious electrical problem.

Q: Can I replace my submersible pump myself?

A: Technically yes, but it’s challenging. You’ll need: Pump puller or crane, pipe wrenches, splicing tools, torque arrestor, and 2-3 strong helpers. Wells 100+ feet deep are especially difficult. Most homeowners hire professionals ($600-$2,000 labor). DIY savings: $600-$1,500 but requires full day and risk of complications.

Q: How do I know if my check valve is bad?

A: Main test: Turn off water supply after pressure tank. Shut off pump. Watch pressure gauge—if pressure drops quickly (5+ PSI in 1 minute), check valve is leaking. You’ll also hear water running backward down the well after pump stops. Unfortunately, check valve replacement requires pulling the pump.

Q: Why is my well pump running but no water coming out?

A: Four main causes: 1) Well water level dropped below pump (let well recover), 2) Airlock in pump (cycle on/off to clear), 3) Frozen pipes (winter issue), 4) Failed check valve letting water drain back. Check well depth first—if pump running dry, shut it off immediately to prevent damage.

Q: How much does it cost to replace a submersible well pump?

A: Total cost $1,000-$3,500 typically. Breakdown: Pump $400-$1,500, labor $600-$2,000 (varies by depth—deeper = more expensive). Add $300-$600 if replacing drop pipe, check valve, or wiring. Shallow wells (100 feet) = lower end. Deep wells (300+ feet) = higher end. Get 3 quotes from licensed well contractors.

Q: What causes a submersible pump to burn out?

A: Top causes: 1) Running dry (low well water level), 2) Sand/sediment damage to impellers and motor, 3) Lightning strikes, 4) Voltage problems (low voltage, power surges), 5) Worn bearings from age, 6) Rapid cycling from bad pressure tank. Prevention: Proper sizing, sediment filtration, surge protection, regular maintenance.

Q: How can I tell if my well pump motor is bad?

A: Test resistance between pump wires with multimeter (pump off). Should read 4-15 ohms for 2-wire, specific values for 3-wire (check specs). If “OL” (infinite resistance) = open winding = bad motor. If 0 ohms = short = bad motor. Also test from wires to ground—should be infinite. Any reading = short to ground = bad motor. Also: Repeated breaker trips, burning smell, or pump won’t run all indicate motor failure.

Q: Why does my well pump cycle on and off constantly?

A: This is “short cycling” and will destroy your pump. Causes: 1) Failed pressure tank bladder (70% of cases—tank waterlogged), 2) Lost air charge in tank, 3) Small leak somewhere, 4) Tank undersized for pump. Fix pressure tank first—check air pressure (should be 2 PSI below cut-in pressure). If waterlogged, replace tank immediately. See: LINK: Best Pressure Tanks

Q: Can a well pump be repaired or does it need replacing?

A: Depends on what failed. If motor is bad, pump needs replacing (motor isn’t serviceable once in well). If it’s check valve, wiring, or control box—those can be repaired, but check valve repair requires pulling pump anyway. General rule: Pumps under 5 years old = worth repairing. Pumps 10+ years old with motor problems = replace. Get professional diagnosis before deciding.

Related Articles

• LINK: Best Well Pumps – Complete buying guide for replacement
• LINK: Well Pump Won’t Shut Off – Specific troubleshooting for this issue
• LINK: Low Water Pressure from Well – Pressure problems diagnosis
• LINK: Best Pressure Tanks for Well Water – Tank selection and sizing
• LINK: Well Pressure Tank Problems – Tank-specific troubleshooting
• LINK: Annual Well Maintenance Checklist – Preventive maintenance guide
• LINK: Best Sediment Filters for Well Water – Protect your pump from damage

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Summary: Your Troubleshooting Checklist

Before calling a professional (and spending $300-$500 just for diagnosis), work through this checklist:

Quick Fixes (Try These First):

✅ Reset circuit breaker – 30% of “no water” calls ✅ Check pressure switch – Clean contacts, verify operation
✅ Test pressure tank air – Add air if low (2 PSI below cut-in) ✅ Look for obvious leaks – Running toilets, dripping faucets ✅ Check pressure gauge – Is system building pressure?

Time investment: 30-60 minutes
Potential savings: $300-$500 service call

Tools Worth Buying:

Essential: Digital multimeter ($30-$80) [AFFILIATE LINK]
Very Helpful: Clamp ammeter ($40-$150) [AFFILIATE LINK]
Nice to Have: Well water level meter ($100-$200) [AFFILIATE LINK]

Total investment: $70-$430
Pays for itself: After 1-2 avoided service calls

When to Stop and Call a Pro:

• Breaker trips repeatedly when reset
• Burning smell or smoke
• No voltage at pump wires (wiring issue in well)
• Pump resistance test shows failed motor
• Pump is 15+ years old and having multiple issues
• Well water level extremely low
• You’re uncomfortable with diagnosis
• Problem persists after trying above fixes

Average Repair Costs:

RepairDIY CostProfessional CostPressure switch$35-$75$150-$300Pressure tank$150-$600$400-$900Control box capacitor$30-$60$150-$300Full control box$100-$250$250-$450Check valveN/A (requires pump pull)$500-$1,500Pump replacement$400-$1,500 (pump only)$1,000-$3,500

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Take Action: Start Troubleshooting

Right Now:

1. Check your breaker – Rule out the simplest issue
2. Look at pressure gauge – What’s the current pressure?
3. Listen to your pump – Is it running? Constantly? Not at all?
4. Note symptoms – Document exactly what’s happening

Today:

5. Work through diagnostic steps – Follow this guide systematically
6. Order basic tools if you don’t have them [AFFILIATE LINK]
7. Test what you can safely – Pressure tank, pressure switch, leaks

This Week:

8. Make necessary repairs – Replace switch, tank, or other parts
9. Call professional if needed – Don’t delay serious issues
10. Implement preventive maintenance – Prevent future problems

Remember: Many “pump failures” are actually pressure tanks, switches, or other above-ground components. Systematically diagnose before assuming you need pump replacement.

Good luck, and may your troubleshooting be quick and your repairs inexpensive!