Well Pressure Tank Problems: 8 Warning Signs & Solutions (2025)

Your well pressure tank is working hard right now—even if you’re not using any water.

This unsung hero of your well system maintains steady water pressure, protects your pump from burnout, and ensures water flows reliably to every faucet. But when it starts to fail, the problems cascade quickly: fluctuating pressure, constant pump cycling, water hammer, and eventually, complete system failure.

The good news? Your pressure tank gives plenty of warning signs before it completely dies. Catch these problems early, and you might save your pump, avoid water damage, and prevent a middle-of-the-night water emergency.

After helping dozens of well owners troubleshoot pressure tank issues, I’ve seen the same patterns emerge over and over. In this guide, I’ll show you exactly how to identify pressure tank problems, understand what’s causing them, and—most importantly—fix them before they lead to bigger disasters.

How a Well Pressure Tank Works (Quick Refresher)

Before we diagnose problems, let’s quickly review how your pressure tank actually works. Understanding this makes troubleshooting much easier.

The Basic System

Your well pressure tank is essentially a large steel tank divided into two sections:

Water side: Holds water pumped from your well Air side: Contains compressed air (separated by a bladder or diaphragm)

Here’s how it maintains pressure:

1. Pump fills the tank with water from the well
2. Air compresses as water enters, building pressure (typically 40-60 PSI)
3. Pressure switch turns off pump when target pressure is reached (usually 50 PSI)
4. You use water from faucets, toilets, washing machine, etc.
5. Pressure gradually drops as water is used
6. Pressure switch activates pump when pressure drops to cut-on point (usually 30 PSI)
7. Cycle repeats

Why This Matters

This system allows your pump to rest between cycles rather than running constantly. Without a properly functioning pressure tank, your pump would turn on and off every single time you opened a faucet—quickly destroying the motor.

A good pressure tank also:

• Prevents water hammer (pipe banging)
• Provides water storage during power outages
• Smooths out pressure fluctuations
• Extends pump lifespan by 3-5x

Now that you understand the basics, let’s look at what goes wrong.

8 Warning Signs Your Pressure Tank is Failing

1. Short Cycling (Pump Runs Constantly)

What it looks like: Your well pump turns on and off frequently—every 30 seconds to a few minutes—even with minimal water use.

Why it happens:

This is the #1 most common pressure tank problem. Several issues cause short cycling:

Waterlogged tank: The bladder has failed, allowing water and air to mix. Without compressed air to maintain pressure, the tank can’t hold enough water to complete proper cycles.

Loss of air charge: The air side of the bladder has leaked, reducing or eliminating the air cushion.

Failed bladder/diaphragm: A tear or rupture in the separator between water and air.

Undersized tank: The tank is too small for your household water demands (less common, but possible).

How to check: Turn off all water in your house. Watch your pressure gauge. If the pump kicks on within 1-2 minutes with no water running, you have a problem.

Impact: Short cycling dramatically reduces pump life. Well pumps are designed for maybe 15-20 cycles per day. If yours is cycling 50-100 times, it’ll burn out in months instead of lasting 10-15 years.

2. Water Pressure Fluctuates Wildly

What it looks like: Water surges when you first turn on a faucet, then drops. Or pressure varies dramatically between uses—strong in the morning, weak at night.

Why it happens:

When your pressure tank can’t maintain steady pressure, you’ll experience these fluctuations:

• Bladder failure causes pressure spikes
• Low air charge causes pressure drops
• Faulty pressure switch can’t maintain proper cut-on/cut-off points
• Waterlogged tank provides minimal pressure buffering

How to check: Turn on a shower and let it run for a minute. If water pressure changes noticeably while running (without anyone else using water), your tank isn’t stabilizing pressure properly.

Impact: Beyond annoyance, fluctuating pressure can:

• Damage washing machines and dishwashers
• Cause toilet fill valves to malfunction
• Create water hammer that damages pipes

3. Water Hammer (Banging Pipes)

What it looks like: Loud banging or knocking sounds from pipes when you shut off water quickly (especially toilets, washing machines, or quick-close faucets).

Why it happens:

Water hammer occurs when water flowing through pipes suddenly stops, causing a pressure shockwave. A properly functioning pressure tank absorbs these shocks through its air cushion.

When the air cushion fails (waterlogged tank or bladder rupture), nothing absorbs the shock, and pipes literally bang against framing, creating that knocking sound.

How to check:

1. Flush a toilet and listen for banging when the fill valve shuts off
2. Turn off washing machine and listen when water stops
3. Close faucets quickly and listen for pipe knocking

Impact: Water hammer isn’t just annoying—it’s dangerous. The pressure spike can:

• Exceed 10x normal system pressure
• Burst pipes or fittings
• Damage pump seals and valves
• Crack fixtures and appliances
• Create leaks throughout your system

4. Tank Feels Heavy or Water-Logged

What it looks like: When you gently push or tap on the pressure tank, it feels like it’s completely full of water rather than having a hollow sound.

Why it happens:

A failed bladder or diaphragm allows water to fill the entire tank, eliminating the air space. Think of it like a water heater—completely full and heavy.

How to check:

1. Turn off power to your well pump
2. Drain some water from the system
3. Gently rock the tank or tap it with your knuckles
4. A healthy tank should sound hollow on top (where air is)
5. A waterlogged tank sounds/feels full and heavy throughout

Visual check: Look at the air valve on top of the tank. Press the valve like you’re checking tire pressure. If water sprays out instead of air, your bladder has failed and the tank is waterlogged.

Impact: A waterlogged tank:

• Provides zero pressure storage
• Forces pump to run constantly
• Offers no protection against water hammer
• Essentially turns your system into “run-on-demand” mode

5. Rusty or Discolored Water

What it looks like: Water comes out reddish-brown, especially after the pump hasn’t run for a while (first thing in the morning or after vacation).

Why it happens:

Two scenarios cause this with pressure tanks:

Tank corrosion: The steel tank is rusting from the inside. As water sits in contact with corroded metal, it picks up rust particles.

Well sediment accumulation: Sand, silt, and sediment settle at the bottom of the pressure tank over years. When the pump cycles, this sediment gets stirred up and flows into your plumbing.

How to check:

• Run water for 30 seconds and collect a sample
• Let it sit for a few minutes
• If sediment settles to the bottom, it’s coming from your well/tank
• If water stays uniformly discolored, it’s dissolved iron

Impact:

• Stains sinks, toilets, laundry, and fixtures
• Indicates tank may be near end of life
• Can clog filters and aerators
• May indicate well casing problems (sand/silt)

Solution: If sediment is the issue, consider:

• [AFFILIATE LINK] Whole house sediment filter
• [AFFILIATE LINK] Sediment filter for well water (see our review)
• Tank inspection/replacement if corrosion is the cause

6. Clicking or Strange Noises from Pressure Switch

What it looks like: Rapid clicking sounds near the pressure switch (usually mounted on or near the tank). May occur without water even running.

Why it happens:

The pressure switch controls when your pump turns on and off. Rapid clicking indicates:

Electrical arcing: Contacts inside the switch are worn and making poor connection Rapid pressure changes: Tank bladder failure causing pressure to fluctuate wildly Failed switch: The switch itself is broken and cycling inappropriately

How to check:

• Listen near your pressure tank with no water running
• If you hear clicking every few seconds, the switch is cycling
• This usually accompanies short cycling problems

Impact:

• Can burn out pressure switch
• Damages pump motor with constant starting/stopping
• Increases electricity usage dramatically
• Indicates broader system problems

7. High Electricity Bills

What it looks like: Your electric bill increases noticeably, especially if you haven’t changed your water usage patterns.

Why it happens:

Well pumps use significant electricity—typically 1-2 HP motors drawing 1,000-2,000 watts when running. A healthy system runs the pump maybe 10-15 times per day for 2-3 minutes each cycle.

But when pressure tank problems cause short cycling, your pump might run 50-100+ times per day. That’s 3-5x more electricity usage.

How to check:

• Compare electric bills from the same month last year
• Listen to how often your pump runs over an hour
• A pump running more than every 15 minutes indicates problems

Impact:

• $20-50+ additional monthly electricity costs
• Wasted energy
• Carbon footprint increase
• Indicator of impending pump failure

8. Age and Visible Corrosion

What it looks like: Your pressure tank is old (10-15+ years), shows rust on the exterior, has water stains, or looks weathered.

Why it matters:

Pressure tanks have finite lifespans:

• Standard galvanized tanks: 5-10 years
• Modern bladder tanks: 10-15 years
• Premium composite tanks: 15-25 years

Age isn’t a problem by itself, but older tanks are much more likely to fail. Combined with any of the symptoms above, age indicates replacement is probably needed soon.

How to check:

• Look for a manufacturer date stamped on the tank
• Check for rust spots, especially at the bottom
• Look for water stains indicating previous leaks
• Check the air valve—corroded valve = aging tank

Impact:

• Older tanks are more prone to catastrophic failure
• Sudden rupture can cause flooding
• Failed components are often not worth repairing on old tanks

Common Pressure Tank Problems: Causes and Solutions

Now that you know the symptoms, let’s look at specific problems and how to fix them.

Problem 1: Failed Bladder or Diaphragm

Symptoms: Short cycling, waterlogged tank, water coming from air valve

Cause: The rubber bladder/diaphragm that separates water from air has developed a tear or rupture.

Solutions:

Option 1 – Replace the Bladder (If Possible):

• Some tank models have replaceable bladders
• Cost: $50-150 for bladder + labor
• Takes 1-2 hours with proper tools
• Only worthwhile if tank is otherwise in good condition

Option 2 – Replace the Entire Tank (Usually Better):

• Modern bladder tanks are reliable and long-lasting
• Cost: $150-400 for tank + $200-400 installation
• Comes with warranty (typically 5-7 years)
• Better long-term value

DIY vs. Professional: Bladder replacement requires draining the system, removing the tank, and proper reassembly. Most homeowners hire a well contractor or plumber for this job.

Recommended Replacement Tanks:

• [AFFILIATE LINK] Amtrol Well-X-Trol (Industry standard)
• [AFFILIATE LINK] Water Worker HT-20B (Best value)
• [AFFILIATE LINK] Flexcon Industries FLX-80 (Premium option)
• See our article: Best Pressure Tanks for Well Water

Problem 2: Low or Lost Air Charge

Symptoms: Short cycling, no water hammer protection, constant pump running

Cause: Air has leaked from the bladder side through the air valve, usually due to a faulty valve core or gradual air loss over time.

Solution: Recharge the Air (Easy DIY Fix!)

This is one problem you can often fix yourself:

1. Turn off power to well pump (circuit breaker)
2. Drain water from the system (open lowest faucet)
3. Check air pressure with tire pressure gauge on air valve
4. Compare to specifications: Should be 2 PSI below pump cut-on pressure
   • Example: If pump cuts on at 30 PSI, tank should be 28 PSI
5. Add air with standard air compressor or bicycle pump
6. Close drain, restore power, test

Cost: Free if you have an air compressor, or $5-10 to take to a gas station

When it doesn’t work: If air pressure drops again within a few weeks, either:

• The air valve core needs replacing ($5 part)
• The bladder has developed a slow leak (needs tank replacement)

Problem 3: Faulty Pressure Switch

Symptoms: Incorrect cut-on/cut-off pressures, clicking sounds, pump won’t turn on/off

Cause: Electrical contacts inside the switch corrode, mineral deposits interfere with mechanics, or the switch simply wears out.

Solutions:

Minor Fix – Clean the Contacts:

• Turn off power
• Remove switch cover
• Use fine sandpaper to clean contact points
• Blow out dust and mineral deposits
• Cost: Free, takes 15 minutes

Replacement (Common Solution):

• Pressure switches are inexpensive ($20-50)
• Installation requires some electrical knowledge
• Adjusting pressures requires careful calibration
• Cost: $20-50 for switch + $75-150 professional installation

Recommended Pressure Switches:

• [AFFILIATE LINK] Square D by Schneider (Most common)
• [AFFILIATE LINK] Merrill XTROL (Premium option)
• [AFFILIATE LINK] Goulds Adjustable Switch

DIY Caution: Pressure switches involve both electricity and water. If you’re not comfortable with electrical work, hire a professional.

Problem 4: Undersized Tank

Symptoms: Frequent cycling despite healthy tank, insufficient water during power outages

Cause: Tank is too small for household water demand. This often happens when families grow or water usage increases (irrigation, larger appliances).

Solution: Upgrade to Larger Tank

Sizing Guidelines:

• 1-2 people: 20-30 gallon tank
• 3-4 people: 40-50 gallon tank
• 5+ people: 60-80+ gallon tank
• With irrigation: Add 20 gallons

You can also add a second tank in parallel for more capacity without replacing the existing tank.

Recommended Tanks by Size:

• [AFFILIATE LINK] 20-30 Gallon Tanks
• [AFFILIATE LINK] 40-50 Gallon Tanks
• [AFFILIATE LINK] 60-80 Gallon Tanks

Problem 5: Leaking Tank

Symptoms: Water pooling around tank, rust stains, water damage to floor

Cause: Corrosion has created pinhole leaks or fitting connections have failed.

Solution: Replace Immediately

A leaking pressure tank cannot be repaired effectively. Small leaks quickly become major leaks. Replace the tank before it ruptures completely and causes flooding.

Emergency steps while waiting for replacement:

1. Place bucket under leak
2. Check bucket frequently
3. Consider shutting off system if leak is significant
4. Call well contractor immediately

Cost: $150-400 for tank + $200-400 installation = $350-800 total

Problem 6: Check Valve Failure

Symptoms: Water flows back into well, pressure drops rapidly, pump cycles frequently

Cause: The check valve (usually on submersible pump or in well line) prevents water from flowing backward. When it fails, water drains back into the well.

Solution:

For Submersible Pumps: Check valve is on the pump (in the well)

• Requires pulling pump from well
• Professional job: $500-1,000+
• Opportunity to inspect pump, replace if old

For Jet Pumps: Check valve or foot valve is accessible

• Can often be replaced without major work
• DIY-friendly if mechanically inclined
• Parts: $20-75

Diagnosis: If you shut off water to the house at the tank but pressure still drops, the check valve is likely the culprit (water is flowing back into well).

When to Repair vs. Replace Your Pressure Tank

This is the big decision: Can you fix it, or do you need a new tank?

Repair if:

✅ Tank is less than 5 years old ✅ Only air charge is low (easy recharge fix) ✅ Pressure switch is the problem (easy replacement) ✅ Tank shows no signs of corrosion or damage ✅ You can find replacement bladder for your model ✅ Cost of repair is under $150

Replace if:

❌ Tank is 10+ years old ❌ Bladder has failed ❌ Tank is waterlogged ❌ Visible corrosion or rust ❌ Tank has ever leaked ❌ Multiple symptoms present ❌ Repair costs approach $200+

Why I Usually Recommend Replacement:

Modern pressure tanks are relatively inexpensive ($150-400) and come with warranties. Spending $150 to repair a 10-year-old tank doesn’t make sense when a new tank costs $250 and will last another 10-15 years.

Plus, new tanks use modern bladder technology that’s more reliable than the old diaphragm designs.

How to Choose a Replacement Pressure Tank

If you’ve determined you need a new tank, here’s what to consider:

1. Tank Capacity

Match your household needs:

• Too small: Pump cycles too frequently
• Too large: Water sits too long (bacteria concerns)
• Just right: Pump runs 10-15 times daily

Rule of thumb: 10 gallons of tank capacity per person in household

2. Tank Type

Bladder Tanks (Recommended):

• Replaceable rubber bladder
• No waterlogging
• Consistent pressure
• 10-15 year lifespan

Diaphragm Tanks:

• Fixed diaphragm
• Slightly less expensive
• 8-12 year lifespan
• Not all models allow replacement

Galvanized Tanks (Outdated):

• Old technology
• Prone to waterlogging
• Short lifespan
• Don’t buy these anymore

3. Pre-Charge Pressure

Tanks come with factory pre-charge (usually 38 PSI). Verify this matches your system:

• Pre-charge should be 2 PSI below pump cut-on
• Adjustable with air compressor
• Check manufacturer specifications

4. Warranty

Look for:

• Minimum 5-year warranty
• Some brands offer 7-10 years
• Longer warranty indicates quality construction

5. Brand Reliability

Top Brands:

• Amtrol Well-X-Trol: [AFFILIATE LINK] Industry standard, 7-year warranty
• Water Worker: [AFFILIATE LINK] Excellent value, 5-year warranty
• Flexcon: [AFFILIATE LINK] Premium option, 10-year warranty
• Goulds: [AFFILIATE LINK] Commercial-grade, very reliable

Avoid:

• Generic no-name brands
• Tanks without warranty information
• Extremely cheap tanks (under $100 for 40-gallon)

Pressure Tank Maintenance: Prevention is Key

Most pressure tank problems can be prevented or caught early with simple maintenance.

Annual Maintenance Checklist

1. Check Air Pressure (Every 6-12 Months)

• Turn off pump
• Drain system
• Check air pressure at valve
• Add air if below specification
• Takes 10 minutes, costs nothing

2. Inspect for Leaks

• Look for water pooling
• Check all connections
• Look for rust or corrosion
• Fix small leaks before they become big ones

3. Test Pressure Switch

• Note cut-on and cut-off pressures
• Ensure they match specifications
• Clean contacts if accessible

4. Listen for Problems

• Note how often pump cycles
• Listen for water hammer
• Check for unusual noises
• Address issues immediately

5. Monitor Pressure Gauge

• Should show steady pressure when water isn’t running
• Pressure should stay within normal range (40-60 PSI)
• Fluctuations indicate problems

Extend Tank Life

These practices add years to your tank:

Protect from freezing: Insulate or heat in cold climates Control well chemistry: High iron/manganese wears bladders faster Install water filter: [AFFILIATE LINK] Protects tank from sediment Size properly: Don’t undersize—adds stress Address sediment: [AFFILIATE LINK] Sediment filter for well water

DIY vs. Professional: When to Call an Expert

Some pressure tank problems you can handle yourself. Others require professional help.

DIY-Friendly Tasks

✅ Checking air pressure ✅ Adding air to tank ✅ Visual inspections ✅ Cleaning pressure switch contacts ✅ Replacing pressure switch (if electrically competent) ✅ Monitoring symptoms

Skills needed: Basic mechanical aptitude, ability to follow instructions

Tools needed: Air pressure gauge, air compressor, screwdriver set, adjustable wrench

Professional Jobs

🔧 Replacing pressure tank 🔧 Diagnosing complex issues 🔧 Pulling submersible pump (check valve replacement) 🔧 Electrical troubleshooting 🔧 System redesign or upgrades 🔧 Plumbing modifications

Why hire a pro:

• Proper installation critical for system health
• Electrical safety (pressure switches)
• Warranty protection
• Correct sizing and pressure settings
• Saves time and prevents mistakes

Cost expectations:

• Service call: $75-150
• Tank replacement (labor): $200-400
• Total with new tank: $350-800
• Check valve replacement: $500-1,000+

Real-Life Pressure Tank Problem Examples

Let me share some common scenarios I’ve seen:

Case 1: The Short Cycler

Symptom: Pump running every 2-3 minutes Diagnosis: Bladder failure, tank waterlogged Cost if ignored: $1,200 pump replacement + $400 tank = $1,600 Cost to fix: $350 tank replacement Lesson: $350 fix prevented $1,600 disaster

Case 2: The Water Hammer

Symptom: Loud banging when toilet refills Diagnosis: Lost air charge, no pressure cushion Cost to fix: $0 (added air with home compressor) Time: 15 minutes Lesson: Simple maintenance prevented pipe damage

Case 3: The Ignored Leak

Symptom: Small puddle under tank (ignored for months) Result: Tank ruptured, 2″ of water in basement Total cost: $450 tank + $2,500 water damage + $800 destroyed belongings = $3,750 Lesson: $20 service call would have identified problem early

Case 4: The Wrong Diagnosis

Symptom: Low water pressure throughout house Assumed: Bad pressure tank Actual: Clogged sediment filter Cost: $15 filter replacement vs. $450 unnecessary tank Lesson: Diagnose before replacing

Pressure Tank Cost Guide (2025)

Here’s what to budget for various scenarios:

Repair Costs

• Air recharge (DIY): Free to $10
• Pressure switch: $20-50 (DIY) or $100-200 (installed)
• Bladder replacement: $50-150 part + $150-250 labor = $200-400
• Check valve (submersible): $500-1,000+ (requires pump pull)

Replacement Costs

Tank Only:

• 20-30 gallon: $150-250
• 40-50 gallon: $200-350
• 60-80 gallon: $300-500

Professional Installation:

• Labor: $200-400
• Total package: $350-900

DIY Installation:

• Tank + fittings: $175-525
• Tools (if needed): $50-100
• Saves $200-400 in labor

Emergency/After-Hours

• Service call: $150-250
• Emergency rate: +50% to +100%
• Weekend premium: +25% to +50%

FAQs About Pressure Tank Problems

Q: How long do pressure tanks last?

A: Modern bladder tanks typically last 10-15 years with proper maintenance. Factors that reduce lifespan: poor water quality, undersizing, lack of maintenance, extreme temperatures. Premium tanks can last 15-20+ years.

Q: Can I install a pressure tank myself?

A: If you’re mechanically inclined and the tank is easily accessible, yes. You’ll need to shut off power, drain the system, disconnect the old tank, connect the new one, and verify proper air charge and pressure settings. Most homeowners hire professionals for peace of mind and warranty protection.

Q: Why does my pump run when no water is being used?

A: This indicates a leak somewhere in your system. Common causes: failed check valve (water flowing back to well), bladder failure in tank, hidden plumbing leak, or leaking pressure relief valve. Turn off water at the tank—if pump still cycles, the problem is before the shutoff.

Q: How much does it cost to replace a pressure tank?

A: Expect $350-900 total including tank and installation. DIY can reduce this to $175-525 for just the tank and fittings. Size, brand, and location affect pricing.

Q: What pressure should my well tank be set at?

A: The air charge should be 2 PSI below your pump’s cut-on pressure. Standard systems: 28 PSI air charge with 30/50 PSI switch settings. Check your pressure switch label for your specific settings.

Q: Can a bad pressure tank damage my well pump?

A: Absolutely. Short cycling from a failed tank dramatically increases pump starts/stops, causing premature motor failure. Pumps are designed for 10-20 cycles daily; a bad tank can cause 50-100+ cycles, reducing pump life from 10-15 years to just 1-2 years.

Q: Should I repair or replace my 10-year-old pressure tank?

A: Replace. At 10 years, your tank is near the end of its typical lifespan. Repairs rarely make economic sense—spend $150 on repairs for a tank that might last 2 more years, or $250-350 for a new tank that lasts 10-15 years.

Related Articles

• Best Pressure Tanks for Well Water – Complete buying guide
• Annual Well Maintenance Checklist – Complete guide
• Best Well Pumps – Submersible vs. jet pump comparison
• Low Water Pressure from Well – Troubleshooting guide
• Well Pump Won’t Shut Off – Diagnosis and solutions
• Best Well Water Test Kits – Ensure water quality

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Take Action Today

Don’t wait for complete failure. If you’re experiencing any of the warning signs mentioned in this article:

1. Check your tank’s air pressure (15-minute DIY task)
2. Monitor pump cycling for 24 hours (note frequency)
3. Inspect for visible problems (corrosion, leaks, age)
4. Call a professional if you’re unsure or symptoms are severe

Recommended Products for Common Fixes:

• Replacement Tanks: [AFFILIATE LINK] Amtrol Well-X-Trol, Water Worker, Flexcon
• Pressure Switches: [AFFILIATE LINK] Square D, Merrill
• Air Compressors: [AFFILIATE LINK] For maintenance and recharging
• Pressure Gauges: [AFFILIATE LINK] Monitor your system

Find a Professional:

• Search: “well pressure tank service near me”
• Ask: “licensed well contractor” or “well pump specialist”
• Verify: Licenses, insurance, references

Your pressure tank works 24/7 to keep water flowing reliably. Show it some attention, and it’ll take care of you for years to come.