Well Pump Running But No Water: 9 Causes & How to Fix Each One

Your well pump is humming away in the basement or clicking on and off at the pressure tank, but when you turn on a faucet—nothing. Not even a trickle. The pump sounds like it’s working, but there’s no water coming into your house.

This is one of the most frustrating well problems because the pump seems fine, yet you have no water. The good news: this problem has identifiable causes, and many of them are fixable without replacing your entire pump.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the 9 most common reasons your well pump runs but delivers no water, show you how to diagnose which problem you’re facing, and give you step-by-step solutions for each cause—including what you can fix yourself and when you need to call a professional.

Let’s get your water flowing again.

2. How Your Well Pump System Works (Understanding the Basics)

Before troubleshooting, you need to understand how water gets from your well to your faucet:

The Basic System:

1. Submersible pump sits deep in your well (or jet pump at ground level)
2. Pump pushes water up through drop pipe
3. Water enters your pressure tank
4. Pressure tank maintains 40-60 PSI
5. When pressure drops below 40 PSI, pressure switch signals pump to run
6. Pump refills tank until reaching 60 PSI
7. Pressure switch turns pump off

When Pump Runs But No Water Flows:

Something is preventing water from reaching your pressure tank, OR the pump is running but not actually pumping water. The sound of the motor doesn’t mean water is moving.

Critical Point: A pump can run for several reasons even when it’s not pumping water: it’s trying to build pressure, it’s got electrical power but mechanical failure, or it’s airlocked. The motor sound alone tells you nothing about water flow.

Internal link: “Submersible Well Pump Troubleshooting: Complete Diagnostic Guide (2025)”

3. Cause #1: Well Ran Dry (Water Level Dropped Below Pump)

What Happens:

Your well water level dropped below the pump intake. The pump is spinning and running, but it’s sucking air instead of water. This is like trying to drink from a straw when the glass is empty—the pump motor works, but nothing comes up.

Why This Happens:

• Extended drought conditions
• Excessive water usage (filling pool, irrigation)
• Seasonal low water table (late summer/fall)
• Neighbors drilling new wells (lowers aquifer)
• Your well was drilled too shallow originally

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump runs continuously or cycles frequently
• Sputtering or spitting at faucets when water does come
• Air coming from faucets
• Problem started during dry season
• Neighbors reporting similar issues
• Well worked fine until recently

How to Confirm:

The only way to know for certain is to measure well water depth:

1. Turn off pump at breaker
2. Lower a weighted string or well sounder into well
3. Measure depth to water
4. Compare to pump installation depth (check records)
5. If water level is above pump depth, this isn’t your problem

Solutions:

Temporary Fix:

• Reduce water usage drastically
• Wait for water table to recharge (after rain)
• Run pump only at essential times

Permanent Fix:

• Lower pump deeper in well ($800-1,500 installed)
• Drill well deeper ($3,000-8,000)
• Drill new well ($5,000-15,000)

The Hard Truth: If your well runs dry regularly, lowering the pump may not help. The well may simply have insufficient capacity for your household needs.

Prevention: Install low water cutoff switch ($80-150) to prevent pump from running dry and burning out.

AFFILIATE: Pumptec Low Water Cutoff Switch – $120-150 (Amazon)

• Automatically shuts off pump when water level drops
• Prevents pump burnout
• Easy professional installation
• Essential for wells with seasonal low water

4. Cause #2: Broken Drop Pipe or Leaking Connections

What Happens:

The pipe connecting your pump to your house has cracked, split, or a connection has failed. Water pumps out of the well but leaks out before reaching your house. You’re essentially pumping water back into your well.

Why This Happens:

• Pipe froze and cracked (in buried lines)
• Connection at pump corroded and failed
• Pipe fitting loosened over time
• Tree roots damaged buried line
• Lightning strike damaged components
• Age and deterioration (30+ year old systems)

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump runs constantly trying to build pressure
• Never reaches cutoff pressure (60 PSI)
• Pressure gauge shows low or zero PSI
• Can’t hear water entering pressure tank
• Problem happened suddenly (not gradual)
• Recent freeze event or ground settling

How to Check:

This is difficult to diagnose without pulling the pump, but indicators include:

• Listen at well casing—do you hear water falling back down?
• Pressure gauge never rises above 20-30 PSI
• Pump runs 10+ minutes without building pressure
• No cycling—just continuous running

Solutions:

If Leak Is in Buried Line (Outside Well):

• Locate leak using pressure testing ($200-400 professional)
• Excavate and replace damaged section ($500-1,500)
• Or run new line entirely ($1,000-3,000)

If Leak Is at Pump Connection (Inside Well):

• Pull pump and inspect ($800-1,200 labor)
• Replace drop pipe ($200-600 materials)
• Reinstall with new connections
• Total cost: $1,500-2,500

This Requires a Professional: Pulling a submersible pump from a well requires specialized equipment (crane or hoist) and expertise. This is not a DIY job.

AFFILIATE: Merrill MFG Pitless Adapter – $45-80 (Amazon)

• Replaces old corroded connections
• Frost-proof design
• Allows pump removal without excavation
• Professional installation recommended

5. Cause #3: Failed Check Valve

What Happens:

The check valve prevents water from draining back down into the well when the pump stops. When it fails, water drains back down between pump cycles, so the pump has to refill all the piping every time it runs—but it can’t keep up.

Why This Happens:

• Sediment jammed valve open
• Spring inside valve broke
• Valve seat worn out
• Iron bacteria buildup
• Age (valves last 10-15 years typically)

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Water flows initially, then stops
• Must wait several minutes between uses
• Hear water draining back down well after pump stops
• Pressure drops quickly after pump shuts off
• Pump short-cycles (runs frequently for brief periods)
• Problem developed gradually over weeks

Where Check Valves Are Located:

Most systems have 2-3 check valves:

1. At the pump (most important)
2. At the pressure tank connection
3. Sometimes in the well casing (foot valve)

How to Test:

1. Run water until pump activates
2. Shut off all faucets
3. Watch pressure gauge
4. Pressure should hold steady for 1-2 minutes
5. If pressure drops rapidly (10+ PSI in 2 minutes), check valve failed

Solutions:

If Valve Is at Pressure Tank (Accessible):

• DIY replacement possible
• Shut off power to pump
• Drain pressure tank
• Replace valve ($15-40)
• Time: 1-2 hours

If Valve Is at Pump (In Well):

• Requires pulling pump
• Professional service: $800-1,500
• Combine with pump inspection/service

AFFILIATE: Simmons 1-1/4″ Check Valve – $25-35 (Amazon)

• Brass construction
• Standard sizing for most systems
• Easy DIY installation at pressure tank
• Not for submersible pump (requires professional)

Internal link: “Well Pressure Tank Problems: 8 Warning Signs & Solutions (2025)”

6. Cause #4: Airlock in System

What Happens:

An air pocket is trapped somewhere in your water lines, preventing water from flowing. The pump is working fine, water is in the system, but air blocks the flow. Think of an air bubble in a straw—liquid on both sides, but the bubble prevents drinking.

Why This Happens:

• Recent pump or plumbing work
• System was drained for repairs
• Leak allowed air to enter
• Well water level dropped briefly, then recovered
• Check valve failure allowed air in

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Sputtering, spitting faucets
• Intermittent water flow
• Air bubbles in toilet tank
• Problem started after recent work
• Pressure gauge bounces erratically
• Some faucets work, others don’t

How to Clear an Airlock:

Method 1: Force Water Through System

1. Open highest faucet in house (usually upstairs bathroom)
2. Open lowest faucet (basement or outdoor spigot)
3. Turn on garden hose at outdoor spigot
4. Let water run 10-15 minutes
5. Air should work its way out through high faucet

Method 2: Pressurize System

1. Close all faucets
2. Connect garden hose from working outdoor spigot to problem faucet
3. Turn on outdoor spigot (forces water backward)
4. Open problem faucet while hose connected
5. Air pushes out, water flows

Method 3: Drain and Refill

1. Turn off pump at breaker
2. Open all faucets (high and low)
3. Open drain valve on pressure tank
4. Let system completely drain
5. Close all faucets and drain
6. Turn pump back on
7. Open one faucet at a time, starting with lowest

Prevention:

Install automatic air bleeder valve on pressure tank.

AFFILIATE: Taco 400-3 Air Scoop & Vent – $45-60 (Amazon)

• Automatically removes air from system
• Prevents airlocks
• Easy installation on pressure tank
• One-time fix for recurring air problems

7. Cause #5: Clogged or Failed Pressure Switch

What Happens:

The pressure switch tells your pump when to turn on and off. If it’s stuck, corroded, or clogged, the pump may run continuously but not build pressure because the switch isn’t properly sensing pressure.

Why This Happens:

• Sediment buildup inside switch
• Corroded contacts
• Pressure sensing tube clogged
• Adjustment screws loosened
• Switch age (15+ years old)

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump runs continuously
• Won’t shut off at 60 PSI
• Or won’t turn on at 40 PSI
• Pressure gauge shows normal pressure, but pump won’t stop
• Clicking or buzzing sound at switch
• Burnt smell near pressure switch

Where to Find Your Pressure Switch:

Located on or near the pressure tank, usually a gray box with two wires going to it and a small lever on the side.

How to Test:

1. Watch pressure gauge while pump runs
2. If gauge shows 60+ PSI but pump won’t stop = stuck switch
3. If gauge shows 20 PSI but pump won’t start = failed switch
4. Flip manual lever on switch—if pump starts, switch is bad

How to Clean Pressure Switch:

1. Turn off power at breaker
2. Remove switch cover (4 screws)
3. Check for burnt contacts (replace if burnt)
4. Use compressed air to blow out sediment
5. Check pressure sensing tube (small tube going into switch)
6. Clear any clogs with wire
7. Reassemble and test

When to Replace:

• Burnt contacts
• Pitted or corroded metal parts
• Adjustment doesn’t hold
• Over 15 years old

AFFILIATE: Square D by Schneider Electric FSG2J24CP – $35-50 (Amazon)

• Standard 40/60 PSI pressure switch
• Most common residential replacement
• Includes instructions
• DIY-friendly installation

AFFILIATE: Square D 9013FHG12J52M4X Air Compressor Pressure Switch – $65-85 (Amazon)

• Heavy-duty option
• Adjustable pressure settings
• For high-demand systems
• Professional-grade

Internal link: “Well Pump Won’t Shut Off: Why It’s Running Continuously & How to Fix It (2025)”

8. Cause #6: Waterlogged Pressure Tank

What Happens:

Your pressure tank has lost its air charge. Instead of compressing air when water enters (creating pressure), the tank just fills with water. Without air compression, the pump can’t build pressure properly.

Why This Happens:

• Bladder inside tank failed (most common)
• Air valve leaking
• Tank age (bladder tanks last 10-15 years)
• Excessive pump cycling wore out bladder

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump short-cycles (runs every 30-60 seconds)
• Pressure fluctuates wildly
• Tank feels heavy (full of water)
• No air coming from air valve when tested
• Pump runs but pressure stays below 40 PSI
• Water temperature varies (no pressure buffer)

How to Test Your Pressure Tank:

Test 1: Tap Test

1. Tap tank with screwdriver handle
2. Bottom half should sound dull (water)
3. Top half should sound hollow (air)
4. If entire tank sounds dull = waterlogged

Test 2: Air Valve Test

1. Turn off pump at breaker
2. Drain pressure from tank (open faucet)
3. Remove cap from air valve (looks like tire valve)
4. Press valve stem
5. Should release AIR only
6. If water sprays out = failed bladder

Solutions:

If Tank Has External Air Valve (Bladder Tank):

• Check air pressure with tire gauge
• Should be 2 PSI below cut-in (38 PSI for 40/60 system)
• Add air if needed using air compressor
• If won’t hold air = replace tank

If Bladder Failed:

• Tank cannot be repaired
• Must replace entire tank
• Cost: $150-400 for tank + installation

AFFILIATE: Well-X-Trol WX-202 – $280-350 (Amazon)

• 20-gallon capacity (typical residential)
• Pre-charged bladder tank
• 5-year warranty
• Fits most systems
• Professional installation recommended ($150-250)

AFFILIATE: Amtrol WX-203 Wellmate – $320-400 (Home Depot)

• 32-gallon capacity (larger homes)
• Heavy-duty construction
• Longer bladder life
• Better for high-demand systems

Internal link: “Best Pressure Tanks for Well Water: Complete Buying Guide (2025)”

9. Cause #7: Pump Impeller Damaged or Clogged

What Happens:

The impeller is the spinning part inside the pump that actually moves water. If it’s clogged with sediment, broken, or worn out, the motor runs but water doesn’t get pumped.

Why This Happens:

• Sand or sediment clogging impeller
• Well screen failed (allows sand into pump)
• Impeller worn out from abrasive water
• Debris sucked into pump intake
• Lightning strike damaged impeller

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump motor sounds normal
• No unusual noises
• Pressure never builds
• Problem happened suddenly
• Water is sandy or gritty
• Recent severe weather or electrical storm

How to Diagnose:

This is nearly impossible to diagnose without pulling the pump. However, if you have sand in your water combined with no pressure, the impeller is likely clogged.

Check for Sand:

1. Open outdoor spigot
2. Fill clear glass with water
3. Let sit for 30 minutes
4. Look for sediment settled at bottom

If you have sand or sediment, your pump is likely damaged.

Solutions:

Requires Professional Service:

• Pull pump from well
• Inspect impeller
• Clear clogs or replace impeller
• Inspect well screen
• May need new pump if damage is severe

Cost:

• Service call to pull pump: $800-1,200
• Impeller replacement: $200-400
• New pump if needed: $500-1,500
• Well screen repair: $500-2,000

Prevention:

Install sediment filter at pressure tank to catch any sand before it reaches house.

AFFILIATE: iSpring WSP-50 Whole House Spin Down Sediment Filter – $90-120 (Amazon)

• 50-micron filtration
• Protects pump from recirculated sediment
• Washable/reusable filter
• Easy DIY installation

Internal link: “Best Sediment Filters for Well Water: Complete Buying Guide (2025)”

10. Cause #8: Electrical Problem (Pump Getting Power But Not Full Voltage)

What Happens:

The pump is receiving some power (so you hear it humming), but not enough voltage to actually pump water. It’s like a car engine turning over but not having enough power to drive.

Why This Happens:

• One leg of 240V power lost (pump runs on 120V only)
• Corroded wire connections
• Failing capacitor (for single-phase pumps)
• Weak breaker
• Voltage drop from undersized wire
• Bad wire splice underground

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump hums but sounds weak
• Breaker warm to touch
• Flickering lights when pump runs
• Pump worked fine for years, problem developed gradually
• Smell of burning at control box
• Pump trips breaker occasionally

How to Test (Requires Multimeter):

WARNING: This involves testing live 240V power. If you’re not comfortable with electrical work, call an electrician.

1. Turn off power at breaker
2. Remove control box cover
3. Turn power back on
4. Test voltage at pump terminals
5. Should read 240V (± 10V)
6. If reading 120V or less = electrical problem

Common Electrical Issues:

Lost Leg (One Wire Failed):

• Pump gets 120V instead of 240V
• Motor hums but can’t start
• Solution: Repair or replace failed wire ($400-1,200)

Bad Capacitor:

• Capacitor helps motor start
• When failing, motor hums but won’t spin
• Solution: Replace capacitor ($80-200 with labor)

Corroded Connections:

• Wire connections at well or control box corroded
• Creates resistance, reduces voltage
• Solution: Clean and reconnect ($150-300)

This Requires Licensed Electrician: Working on 240V pump circuits is dangerous. Improper repairs can cause electrocution, fire, or pump damage.

11. Cause #9: Pump Motor Failed (Running But Not Pumping)

What Happens:

The motor is spinning, but the pump section has mechanically failed. The impeller shaft broke, bearings seized, or internal components failed. Motor sounds fine, but it’s not connected to the pumping mechanism anymore.

Why This Happens:

• Pump ran dry and overheated
• Age and wear (pumps last 15-25 years)
• Manufacturing defect
• Lightning strike
• Excessive sediment wore out bearings

Signs This Is Your Problem:

• Pump sounds normal (no grinding, no unusual noise)
• No pressure builds at all
• Problem happened suddenly
• Pump is 15+ years old
• Previous issues with running dry
• Recent power surge or lightning

How to Confirm:

This requires pulling the pump from the well and inspecting it. There’s no way to diagnose this from the surface with certainty.

Solutions:

Option 1: Repair Pump

• Pull pump: $800-1,200
• Rebuild pump: $300-600
• Reinstall: $400-600
• Total: $1,500-2,400

Option 2: Replace Pump

• New submersible pump: $500-1,500
• Pull old pump + install new: $1,200-1,800
• Total: $1,700-3,300

Which Makes Sense:

• Pump under 10 years old = consider repair
• Pump over 15 years old = replace
• Severe damage = replace

AFFILIATE: Hallmark Industries MA0414X-7A Deep Well Submersible Pump – $580-680 (Amazon)

• 1/2 HP, 10 GPM
• 4-inch diameter (fits most wells)
• Stainless steel construction
• Good for 150-300 ft depths
• Professional installation required

AFFILIATE: RED LION RL12G05-3W2V Submersible Deep Well Pump – $720-850 (Amazon)

• 1/2 HP, 12 GPM
• Higher capacity for larger homes
• Built-in thermal protection
• 5-year manufacturer warranty

12. Diagnostic Flowchart: Find Your Problem Fast

Follow this step-by-step process to identify your specific issue:

Step 1: Check Pressure Gauge

• Gauge at 0 PSI → Possible dry well, broken pipe, or failed pump
• Gauge at 20-40 PSI but won’t reach 60 → Check valve or weak pump
• Gauge bouncing/erratic → Airlock or waterlogged tank
• Gauge normal but no water → Clogged lines or closed valve

Step 2: Listen to Pump

• Strong, steady sound → Pump mechanically okay, look at system
• Weak humming → Electrical problem or failed capacitor
• Clicking on/off rapidly → Waterlogged tank or failed pressure switch
• Grinding/rattling → Impeller damage or bearing failure

Step 3: Check for Air

• Open highest faucet
• Sputtering/air → Airlock, check valve failure, or low well water
• No sputtering → Different issue

Step 4: Test Pressure Tank

• Tap test (described in Cause #6)
• Sounds full → Waterlogged tank
• Sounds normal → Tank okay

Step 5: Check for Leaks

• Inspect all visible pipes
• Listen at well casing for water falling
• Check pressure switch for leaking
• Look for wet spots in yard

This Process Eliminates:

• 70% of problems can be diagnosed in 15 minutes
• Remaining 30% require professional inspection

13. What You Can Fix Yourself vs. Call a Pro

DIY-Friendly Fixes: ✓ Airlock clearing ✓ Pressure switch replacement ✓ Pressure tank air recharging ✓ Check valve at tank replacement ✓ Sediment filter installation ✓ Basic electrical testing (if experienced)

Requires Professional: ✗ Pulling pump from well ✗ Drop pipe replacement ✗ Well depth measurement ✗ Pump motor replacement ✗ Electrical repair (240V circuits) ✗ Well screen repair

When to Call Immediately: 🚨 Burning smell 🚨 Sparks or smoke 🚨 Breaker repeatedly trips 🚨 No water for 24+ hours 🚨 Water is sandy/muddy

14. Prevention: Stop This From Happening Again

Regular Maintenance:

• Test pressure tank air charge annually
• Replace pressure switch every 10-15 years
• Install low water cutoff if prone to dry well
• Check valve replacement every 10 years
• Annual system inspection

Protective Equipment:

AFFILIATE: Intermatic P1121 Surge Protective Device – $85-110 (Amazon)

• Protects pump from lightning/power surges
• Prevents electrical damage
• Easy installation at panel
• Insurance against expensive pump replacement

AFFILIATE: Square D by Schneider Electric HOM230CP – $25-35 (Amazon)

• 30-amp 2-pole circuit breaker
• Replace old breakers preventively
• Proper protection for pump circuit

Water Quality Protection:

Install whole house sediment filter to protect pump from recirculated sediment that can damage impeller.

Internal link: “Annual Well Maintenance Checklist: Complete Guide (2025)”

15. Cost Summary: What Will This Fix Cost?

Minor Fixes (DIY Possible):

• Airlock clearing: $0
• Pressure switch replacement: $35-85
• Pressure tank recharge: $0 (if you have air compressor)
• Check valve at tank: $25-50

Medium Repairs (Professional):

• Pressure tank replacement: $300-600
• Electrical diagnosis/repair: $200-500
• Service call + inspection: $150-300

Major Repairs (Professional Required):

• Pull pump + reinstall: $800-1,500
• Drop pipe replacement: $1,500-2,500
• New pump installation: $1,700-3,300
• Well deepening: $3,000-8,000

Total System Replacement: If multiple components have failed (pump, tank, switch), total replacement may cost $2,500-4,500 but gives you a complete new system with warranty.

16. Conclusion & Next Steps

A well pump running but producing no water has nine main causes, ranging from simple airlocks to complete pump failure. Most problems are diagnosable with basic observation and can be fixed for under $500.

Your Action Plan:

Today:

1. Check pressure gauge reading
2. Listen to pump sounds
3. Test for air in system
4. Inspect visible components

This Week:

1. Try DIY fixes (airlock, pressure switch)
2. If unsuccessful, call well professional
3. Get diagnosis before authorizing repairs

Long-Term:

1. Install protective equipment
2. Schedule annual maintenance
3. Keep records of all work done
4. Replace components proactively

Remember: A pump that runs is better than one that won’t start at all—it means you likely have a fixable system problem rather than total pump failure.

Most homeowners spend $200-800 to resolve this issue. Don’t panic, and don’t assume you need a new well. Methodical diagnosis usually reveals a fixable cause.

Your water will flow again.

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Internal Links to Include:

• Submersible Well Pump Troubleshooting: Complete Diagnostic Guide (2025)
• Well Pressure Tank Problems: 8 Warning Signs & Solutions (2025)
• Well Pump Won’t Shut Off: Why It’s Running Continuously & How to Fix It (2025)
• Best Pressure Tanks for Well Water: Complete Buying Guide (2025)
• Best Sediment Filters for Well Water: Complete Buying Guide (2025)
• Annual Well Maintenance Checklist: Complete Guide (2025)

Affiliate Products:

1. Pumptec Low Water Cutoff Switch – $120-150 (Amazon)
2. Merrill MFG Pitless Adapter – $45-80 (Amazon)
3. Simmons Check Valve – $25-35 (Amazon)
4. Taco Air Scoop & Vent – $45-60 (Amazon)
5. Square D Pressure Switch FSG2J24CP – $35-50 (Amazon)
6. Square D Heavy-Duty Switch 9013FHG12J52M4X – $65-85 (Amazon)
7. Well-X-Trol WX-202 Pressure Tank – $280-350 (Amazon)
8. Amtrol Wellmate WX-203 – $320-400 (Home Depot)
9. iSpring WSP-50 Sediment Filter – $90-120 (Amazon)
10. Hallmark Industries Submersible Pump – $580-680 (Amazon)
11. RED LION Deep Well Pump – $720-850 (Amazon)
12. Intermatic Surge Protector – $85-110 (Amazon)
13. Square D Circuit Breaker – $25-35 (Amazon)