Low Water Pressure from Well: 12 Causes & Solutions

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Weak shower pressure. Washing machine taking forever to fill. Multiple faucets running turns water to a trickle. If you have well water with low pressure, you know how frustrating it is.

Low water pressure from a well can have many causes, from simple fixes you can handle in minutes to serious issues requiring professional help. The key is diagnosing the problem correctly so you don’t waste money replacing parts that aren’t broken.

After troubleshooting hundreds of well pressure issues, I’ve identified the 12 most common causes and their solutions. Whether your pressure dropped suddenly or has been gradually declining, this guide will help you identify the problem and fix it.

Understanding Well Water Pressure

Normal pressure range: 40-60 PSI (pounds per square inch)

• Below 40 PSI: Noticeable weak flow
• 30 PSI or less: Barely usable
• Above 60 PSI: Too high (can damage fixtures)

How well pressure works:

1. Well pump brings water up from underground
2. Pressure tank stores water and maintains pressure
3. Pressure switch controls when pump turns on/off
4. Water flows to your fixtures at stored pressure

When pressure drops, any of these components (or your pipes) could be the culprit.

Quick Diagnostic: Where to Start

Before diving into repairs, answer these questions:

Timing Questions

When did low pressure start?

• Suddenly (overnight): Likely mechanical failure or leak
• Gradually (weeks/months): Probably sediment, declining well, or aging equipment
• Always been low: Undersized system or well issue

When does it happen?

• All the time: System-wide problem
• Only with multiple fixtures: Undersized pump or tank
• Morning only: Overnight tank drainage
• After not using water: Air in system

Location Questions

Where is pressure low?

• Everywhere: Main system issue
• One fixture: Local pipe problem or clog
• Upstairs only: Insufficient pump or pressure
• Hot water only: Water heater issue

What fixtures are affected?

• All fixtures equally: Main line or pump
• Showers worst: Normal (showerheads need higher pressure)
• Kitchen sink: Possible aerator clog

Now let’s identify your specific problem.

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Cause #1: Clogged Aerators or Showerheads

Likelihood: Very High
Difficulty: Very Easy
Cost: $0-$20
Time: 5-15 minutes

The Problem

This is the most common and easiest fix. Mineral deposits, sediment, and debris clog the tiny screens in faucet aerators and showerheads, restricting flow.

How to confirm:

• Low pressure at one or few fixtures
• Other fixtures have normal pressure
• Visible debris in aerator
• Brown water or hard water issues

The Solution

For faucet aerators:

1. Unscrew aerator from faucet (hand-tight, or use pliers with cloth)
2. Disassemble and note order of parts
3. Clean screen with old toothbrush
4. Soak in vinegar for 30 minutes (dissolves minerals)
5. Rinse thoroughly
6. Reassemble and test

Cost: Free

Replace if: Aerator is corroded or damaged ($3-10 at hardware store)

For showerheads:

1. Unscrew showerhead
2. Remove rubber washer and screen
3. Soak entire head in vinegar overnight
4. Use toothpick to clear individual holes
5. Rinse and reinstall

Cost: Free to $25 (if buying new showerhead)

Prevention

• Clean aerators every 6 months
• Install whole house water filter to prevent sediment buildup
• Treat iron issues if you have staining

Quick test: Remove aerator completely. If pressure is strong, aerator was the problem.

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Cause #2: Pressure Switch Failure

Likelihood: High
Difficulty: Moderate
Cost: $15-$40 DIY, $150-$300 professional
Time: 30-60 minutes

The Problem

The pressure switch tells your pump when to turn on (usually 40 PSI) and off (usually 60 PSI). If it fails or gets stuck, your pump won’t maintain proper pressure.

How to confirm:

• Pressure gauge reads low (under 40 PSI)
• Pump doesn’t turn on when it should
• Pump runs constantly
• Pressure fluctuates wildly

Where it is: Usually mounted on pressure tank or near it, has two wires and a small lever.

The Solution

Check the switch first:

1. Turn off power to pump
2. Remove switch cover
3. Look for:
   • Corrosion on contacts
   • Burned contacts
   • Debris inside
4. Clean contacts with fine sandpaper if corroded
5. Test after cleaning

If cleaning doesn’t work, adjust settings:

1. Locate adjustment nuts (usually two)
2. Turn larger nut clockwise 1 full turn (raises both pressures)
3. Test pressure
4. Adjust until you reach 40/60 PSI range

If still not working, replace:

1. Turn off power and water
2. Release pressure (open faucet)
3. Remove wires (photo first!)
4. Unscrew old switch
5. Install new switch with Teflon tape on threads
6. Reconnect wires
7. Turn on power and test

Cost: $15-40 for new switch

When to call pro: If you’re uncomfortable with electrical work or can’t achieve proper pressure after adjustment.

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Cause #3: Waterlogged Pressure Tank

Likelihood: High (especially in tanks over 5 years old)
Difficulty: Easy to diagnose, moderate to fix
Cost: $150-$400 for new tank, $0 if fixable
Time: 2-4 hours

The Problem

Pressure tanks have an internal bladder that separates air from water. When the bladder fails, water fills the entire tank (waterlogged), eliminating the air cushion that maintains pressure.

How to confirm:

Test 1: Tap test

• Tap tank with knuckles
• Top half should sound hollow (air)
• Bottom half should sound solid (water)
• If entire tank sounds solid = waterlogged

Test 2: Pressure gauge

• Pump cycles on and off rapidly (every 30-60 seconds)
• Pressure drops quickly when using water
• Gauge needle bounces when pump runs

Test 3: Air valve check

• Find air valve (looks like tire valve) on top of tank
• Press valve core
• If water sprays out = bladder failed

The Solution

If bladder is intact (rare):

Try recharging air:

1. Turn off pump
2. Drain tank completely
3. Add air through valve until pressure reaches 2 PSI below pump cut-in
4. Turn pump back on
5. Test

If bladder failed (common):

Tank must be replaced:

1. Turn off power to pump
2. Turn off water supply
3. Drain tank completely
4. Disconnect pipes and wires
5. Remove old tank
6. Install new tank with proper pre-charge (usually 38 PSI for 40/60 switch)
7. Reconnect everything
8. Test system

Cost: $150-$400 depending on tank size

Tank lifespan: 5-10 years typically

Prevention:

• Check air pressure annually
• Maintain proper pre-charge
• Consider upgrading to larger tank (reduces pump cycling)

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Cause #4: Well Pump Declining or Failing

Likelihood: Moderate (increases with pump age)
Difficulty: Professional required
Cost: $500-$1,500 for repair, $1,500-$3,500 for replacement
Time: 4-8 hours professional work

The Problem

Well pumps don’t last forever. As they age, they lose efficiency and can’t deliver the same pressure. Average lifespan: 10-15 years.

How to confirm:

• Pump runs longer than it used to
• Pressure has gradually declined over months
• Pump is 10+ years old
• Water flow has decreased
• Pump sounds different (grinding, struggling)

Signs pump is failing:

• Pump runs continuously but pressure stays low
• Pressure drops during use more than before
• Pump cycles more frequently
• Electricity bill increased (pump working harder)

The Solution

Test pump performance:

Hire professional to:

• Measure pump output (GPM – gallons per minute)
• Check amp draw (electrical usage)
• Compare to pump’s rated capacity
• Inspect pump for wear

If pump output is low:

Option 1: Professional cleaning

• Remove sediment from pump
• Clean impeller
• Check for iron bacteria buildup
• Cost: $200-$500

Option 2: Pump replacement

• Remove old pump from well
• Install new pump at proper depth
• New wiring and connections
• Cost: $1,500-$3,500 depending on well depth

When to replace vs repair:

• Pump under 7 years old: Consider repair
• Pump 10+ years old: Replace (repair is temporary)
• Major damage: Replace
• Minor issues: Repair

DIY? No. Well pump work requires specialized equipment and knowledge. Attempting DIY can damage well and be dangerous.

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Cause #5: Sediment Clogging System

Likelihood: High (especially wells without filters)
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Cost: $50-$300
Time: 1-4 hours

The Problem

Sand, silt, and mineral deposits accumulate in your pressure tank, pipes, and fixtures, restricting water flow and reducing pressure.

How to confirm:

• Brown or cloudy water
• Sediment in toilet tanks
• Pressure declined gradually
• No filter on well system
• Shallow well (more prone to sediment)

Check these locations:

• Pressure tank (drain valve)
• Inline filters (if installed)
• Faucet aerators
• Toilet tank bottoms

The Solution

Immediate fix:

1. Drain pressure tank:
   • Turn off pump
   • Open drain valve at bottom of tank
   • Let water run until clear
   • Close valve, turn pump on
2. Flush system:
   • Open outdoor spigot (lowest point)
   • Let run 15-30 minutes
   • Flushes sediment from pipes

Long-term solution:

Install sediment filter:

• 5-20 micron filter at point water enters home
• Catches sediment before it reaches tank/fixtures
• Cost: $100-$300 installed
• Filter replacements: $20-50 every 3-6 months

Consider whole house filtration:

• Removes sediment plus other contaminants
• Protects entire plumbing system
• Cost: $600-$2,500

Prevention

• Install sediment pre-filter
• Flush pressure tank annually
• Test water quality to understand sediment levels
• Clean aerators quarterly
• Consider well rehabilitation if sediment is severe

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Cause #6: Pipe Leaks or Breaks

Likelihood: Moderate
Difficulty: Easy to find, varies to fix
Cost: $0-$2,000+ depending on location
Time: Hours to days

The Problem

Leaks anywhere between your well and fixtures reduce pressure. Even small leaks waste water and strain your pump.

How to confirm:

Signs of leaks:

• Pump runs when no water is being used
• Pressure drops overnight
• Wet spots in yard (especially along pipe path to well)
• Water meter running when everything is off
• Soggy areas in basement or crawl space
• Higher electric bill (pump running more)

Finding leaks:

1. Turn off all water in house
2. Watch pressure gauge:
   • If pressure drops = leak between tank and fixtures
   • If pressure holds but pump runs = leak before tank
3. Check obvious places:
   • Pressure tank connections
   • Visible pipes in basement/crawl space
   • Outdoor hydrants
   • Septic system area (cross-connection?)

The Solution

For visible leaks:

Small fitting leaks:

• Tighten connections
• Replace washers
• Apply Teflon tape
• Cost: $0-$20

Pipe cracks:

• Replace section of pipe
• Use couplings for small cracks
• Cost: $20-$100 DIY

For underground leaks:

Signs: Wet spots, excessive pump running, pressure loss

Solution: Call professional with leak detection equipment

• Electronic leak detection
• May need pipe replacement
• Cost: $500-$2,000+ depending on location

Prevent frozen pipes:

• Insulate exposed pipes
• Heat tape in crawl spaces
• Proper burial depth (below frost line)

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Cause #7: Undersized Pressure Tank

Likelihood: Moderate
Difficulty: Moderate
Cost: $200-$500
Time: 2-4 hours

The Problem

If your tank is too small for household needs, it runs out of stored water quickly, causing pressure drops when multiple fixtures run simultaneously.

How to confirm:

• Pressure drops when running multiple fixtures
• Pump cycles frequently (every 1-2 minutes)
• System was fine when installed but household grew
• Tank is smaller than 40 gallons

Tank sizing rule:

• 1-2 people: 30-40 gallon tank
• 3-4 people: 60-80 gallon tank
• 5+ people: 80-120 gallon tank

The Solution

Add larger tank:

Option 1: Replace existing tank

• Remove old, install larger tank
• Cost: $200-$400 for tank + labor

Option 2: Add second tank in series

• Keep existing tank, add another
• Doubles capacity without removing old one
• Cost: $200-$400 for additional tank
• Easier than replacement

Benefits of larger tank:

• Less pressure fluctuation
• Fewer pump cycles (extends pump life)
• Better performance with multiple fixtures
• Quieter system

DIY or pro? Moderate DIY if comfortable with plumbing. Otherwise hire plumber ($200-400 labor).

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Cause #8: Corroded or Clogged Pipes

Likelihood: High in older homes
Difficulty: Difficult
Cost: $500-$5,000+ for re-piping
Time: Days to weeks

The Problem

Old galvanized steel pipes corrode inside, creating rough surfaces and narrowing the pipe diameter. This reduces flow and pressure.

How to confirm:

• Home built before 1970 (likely galvanized)
• Brown or rusty water
• Pressure has declined over years
• Some fixtures worse than others
• Low pH water (under 6.5 – corrodes pipes)

Pipe types:

• Galvanized steel: 40-50 year lifespan, corrodes from inside
• Copper: 50+ years, can corrode if water is acidic
• PEX or PVC: Modern, doesn’t corrode

The Solution

Temporary fixes:

Flush pipes:

• Close main valve
• Open all faucets
• Reopen main quickly (pressure surge may dislodge debris)
• Not a permanent solution

Acid flush: (Professionals only – can damage pipes further)

Permanent solution:

Re-pipe home:

• Replace old galvanized pipes with PEX or copper
• Major project but permanent fix
• Increases home value
• Cost: $2,000-$10,000 depending on home size

Partial re-pipe:

• Replace worst sections first
• Do in phases over time
• Prioritize main lines

Consider:

• Install whole house filter to protect new pipes
• Test and treat corrosive water
• pH neutralizing filter if water is acidic

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Cause #9: Well Water Level Too Low

Likelihood: Moderate (seasonal/drought)
Difficulty: Professional evaluation needed
Cost: $0-$10,000+ for solutions
Time: Varies

The Problem

If the water table drops, your pump can’t draw enough water to maintain pressure. Can be seasonal (summer drought) or permanent (depleted aquifer).

How to confirm:

• Pressure low during dry season
• Neighbors also having issues
• Well is shallow (under 100 feet)
• Pump sounds like it’s struggling
• Water has sediment suddenly
• Pump runs but little water comes out

Check:

• Recent drought conditions
• New wells drilled nearby (competing for water)
• Agricultural irrigation season (drains aquifer)

The Solution

If seasonal:

Wait it out:

• Reduce water usage during low water periods
• Collect rainwater for outdoor use
• Stagger showers and laundry
• Water table will recover after rain

If permanent:

Option 1: Lower pump deeper

• If well is deep enough
• Drop pump 20-50 feet lower
• Cost: $500-$1,500

Option 2: Drill well deeper

• Add 50-100+ feet to existing well
• Cost: $3,000-$8,000

Option 3: Drill new well

• Different location or much deeper
• Last resort
• Cost: $5,000-$15,000+

Option 4: Reduce demand

• Install low-flow fixtures
• Fix all leaks
• Upgrade to efficient appliances
• Connect to municipal water if available

Professional assessment: Well driller can test well recovery rate and recommend solutions.

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Cause #10: Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) Failure

Likelihood: Low (only if you have one)
Difficulty: Easy
Cost: $50-$150 DIY, $200-$400 professional
Time: 1-2 hours

The Problem

Some homes have a pressure reducing valve that lowers incoming pressure to safe levels. If it fails, pressure can be too low (or too high).

How to confirm:

• You have a PRV (bell-shaped valve on main line)
• Pressure suddenly changed
• Gauge reads much lower than it should
• Happened after plumbing work

Where to find it: On main water line where it enters house, usually near water meter or tank.

The Solution

Test PRV:

1. Check pressure gauge reading
2. Adjust PRV screw clockwise (increases pressure)
3. Test fixtures
4. If no change, PRV may be stuck or broken

Replace PRV:

1. Turn off main water
2. Drain system
3. Remove old PRV
4. Install new PRV with same pressure rating
5. Adjust to desired pressure (usually 50-60 PSI)
6. Test

Cost: $50-75 for PRV, 1-2 hours labor if hiring plumber

Note: Most well systems don’t have PRVs. More common on municipal water connections or very high-pressure wells.

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Cause #11: Iron or Mineral Buildup

Likelihood: High in areas with hard water
Difficulty: Moderate
Cost: $100-$2,500
Time: Hours to days

The Problem

Iron, calcium, and manganese deposits coat pipes, pump, and pressure switch, reducing flow and efficiency.

How to confirm:

• Hard water or iron in water
• Orange or white crusty buildup on fixtures
• Pressure declined gradually over months/years
• Water testing shows high mineral content

Where buildup occurs:

• Inside pipes
• On pump impeller
• Pressure switch contacts
• Pressure tank interior

The Solution

Clean existing system:

Pressure switch:

• Remove cover, clean contacts with sandpaper
• Cost: Free

Pipes:

• Flush system thoroughly
• May need acid flush (professional)
• Cost: $200-500

Pump:

• Professional cleaning
• Remove from well, clean impeller
• Cost: $300-800

Long-term solution:

Install treatment:

• Water softener for hardness
• Iron removal system for iron
• Prevents future buildup
• Cost: $600-$2,500

Maintenance:

• Flush system quarterly
• Clean pressure switch annually
• Replace corroded parts promptly

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Cause #12: Partially Closed Valves

Likelihood: Low but easy to check
Difficulty: Very easy
Cost: $0
Time: 5 minutes

The Problem

Someone partially closed a valve and forgot about it. Sounds obvious, but it happens more than you’d think.

How to confirm:

• Pressure suddenly low after plumbing work
• Recent repairs or maintenance
• New homeowner unfamiliar with system

Check these valves:

• Main shutoff valve (should be fully open)
• Valve before pressure tank
• Valves under sinks
• Outdoor hose bibs
• Water heater isolation valves

The Solution

1. Trace main water line from well to house
2. Check every valve along the way
3. Ensure all are fully open (counter-clockwise)
4. Test pressure after opening

Cost: Free

Easy fix but commonly overlooked. Always check valves first before assuming expensive repairs needed.

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Troubleshooting Chart

SymptomLikely CauseQuick TestSolutionPressure low everywherePressure switch, pump, tankCheck gaugeAdjust switch or replace tankPressure low one fixtureClogged aeratorRemove aeratorClean or replacePump runs constantlyLeak, failed switch, bad tankWatch gaugeFind leak or replace partPressure drops with multiple fixturesSmall tank, weak pumpMultiple faucets testLarger tank or pumpBrown water + low pressureSediment, iron buildupVisual inspectionFlush system, add filterPressure fine then dropsWaterlogged tankTap tankReplace tankGradual decline over timeCorroded pipes, declining wellAge of systemRe-pipe or well service

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When to Call a Professional

DIY-friendly issues:

• Clogged aerators
• Pressure switch adjustment
• Valve checks
• Sediment flushing
• Filter replacement

Call professional for:

• Well pump problems
• Underground leaks
• Re-piping entire home
• Well drilling or deepening
• Complex electrical issues
• Anything you’re uncomfortable doing

Cost of professional:

• Diagnosis: $100-$200
• Simple repairs: $150-$400
• Pump replacement: $1,500-$3,500
• Re-piping: $2,000-$10,000

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Prevention Tips

Maintain your system:

• Check pressure monthly (install gauge if you don’t have one)
• Clean aerators quarterly
• Flush pressure tank annually
• Test pressure switch function yearly
• Test water quality annually
• Keep records of maintenance

Protect your system:

• Install whole house filtration
• Treat hard water and iron issues
• Fix leaks immediately
• Don’t overtax system (spread out water usage)

Upgrade when needed:

• Larger pressure tank if family grows
• More efficient pump if usage increases
• Better filtration as water quality changes

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Cost Summary

Simple fixes:

• Aerator cleaning: $0
• Valve adjustment: $0
• Filter replacement: $20-50
• Pressure switch: $15-40

Moderate repairs:

• Pressure tank: $150-400
• Sediment filter system: $100-300
• Leak repair: $100-500
• Pressure switch replacement: $150-300

Major repairs:

• Well pump replacement: $1,500-$3,500
• Re-piping: $2,000-$10,000
• Well deepening: $3,000-$8,000
• New well: $5,000-$15,000

Prevention is cheaper: Maintaining your system costs $100-300/year. Neglecting it can cost $10,000+.

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Your Action Plan

Right now:

1. ✅ Check pressure gauge reading
2. ✅ Clean all aerators
3. ✅ Verify all valves are fully open
4. ✅ Tap pressure tank (listen for waterlogging)

This week: 5. ✅ Test pressure switch if gauge is low 6. ✅ Flush pressure tank if sediment suspected 7. ✅ Check for visible leaks

If still low after simple fixes: 8. ✅ Call professional for pump test 9. ✅ Consider tank upgrade if undersized 10. ✅ Plan for repairs based on diagnosis

Long-term:

• Install proper filtration
• Maintain system regularly
• Keep records
• Budget for eventual pump replacement (10-15 years)

Most pressure problems are fixable without spending thousands. Start with simple solutions, work your way up to complex ones, and don’t hesitate to call a professional when needed.

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Related Articles:

• Best Whole House Water Filters for Well Water
• Brown Water from Well: Causes and Solutions
• How to Test Your Well Water
• Best Water Softeners for Well Water